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New Dimensions
5.12b/c,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
FA: Wolfgang Gullich, 1981
International
> Europe
> Germany
> Frankenjura
> Ankatal
> Ankatalwand
Description
This brilliant wall climb pierces the center of the nearly featureless Ankatalwand. The rock is ideal, speckled with tiny horizontal edges and a smattering of shallow, incut pockets. This the essence of technical face climbing, where footwork and balance are king.
The route begins with wandering sequences up the dead vertical wall, characterized by long cranks between crisp edges. A slight depression provides a good shake below an intimidating bulge at 40 feet. Long moves between good holds work over the bulge to a final test on the headwall.
Location
In the center of the wall, beginning just left of a metal sign implanted in the wall. "ND" is written on the wall at the base.
Protection
The first bolt is dangerously high. The climbing to that point is not trivial, but also not super hard. Bring a long stick clip.
[Hide Photo] New Dimensions climbs the line immediately right of the climber.