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Routes in The Dragon's Tail

Southeast Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C1
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Type: Trad, Aid, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: ?
Page Views: 734 total · 16/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Nov 17, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Despite a recent bolting controversy, this route makes for a great intro to aid climbing and starting aid solo.

Start in a chimney 40 feet right of the Colorado Northeast Ridge on The Kingfisher.

P1 - Follow a bolt ladder in the chimney to the saddle between The Kingfisher and The Dragon's Tail. Some C1 placements or free climbing will be required about 3/4 of the way up to the saddle. 100 feet, 5.6 C1. Word on the street is this pitch frees around 5.10+.

P2 - Walk northeast on the narrow ridge to the base of the southeast face and start clipping bolts (many stubs). Near the top, mandatory free mud climbing will be required before clipping 3 bolts to the top. 120 feet, 5.6 C0.

Rappel the route. Make sure your rope is 200 feet long as a single 60M rope barely reaches the saddle from the top. A 70M rope is recommended.

Rap 1 (2 bolts) - 100 feet
Rap 2 (2 bolts) - 95 feet

Protection

Single rack BD 0.4-3. 12-15 rivet hangers OR 2 sets of smaller nuts. Draws.

A small cliff hanger hook may be helpful on pitch 2 for shorter folks using long nuts instead of rivet hangers.

Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
It may be worth to note that in addition to the free or crack aid moves you have to make 3/4 of the way up the first pitch that also have to do the same at the top, with some grovely moves to reach the anchor. Feb 18, 2015
Chase Bowman
Durango
  5.6 C1
Chase Bowman   Durango
  5.6 C1
I found this to be a pretty fun time for a bolt ladder. The second pitch has some great exposure and the summit is pretty cool. I soloed the route with a 70 M and decided to clean the second pitch on rap so i didnt have to jug back up there. Terrible idea..A 70M will get back down to the saddle but not back to rap anchors, or at least this was my experience. Also I dropped a gopro from the summit, I found parts of it at the base but the other half is still missing. Wouldnt mind getting that sim card back if you find. May 29, 2018

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