Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Ryan Malloy 11/16/2014
Page Views: 216 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ryan Malloy on Nov 16, 2014
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


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Description

Start with both hands and a heel on on the shelf. Bump the right hand through a series of weird edges until you reach an incut edge with a nearby knob for the left hand. Work straight up from there. Look for a bomber foot jib out right to assist with the somewhat sketchy topout.

There is a break in the shelf where it changes angle and becomes covered in moss. The section of the boulder to the left of this break is off. It seems contrived when looking at it but feels more natural when you're on the rock.

Protection

Multiple pads and spotter.

Photos

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Ryan Malloy
Raleigh, NC
  V5
Ryan Malloy   Raleigh, NC
  V5
The number of right hand bumps can vary depending on wingspan. The full experience uses five moves: out right towards the spock crack, left to an incut sloper, left to a pinch, left to a finnicky sidepull, left to the good incut three finger edge.

The more powerful version is just a big move from the start to the pinch then another big move to the incut edge. Nov 17, 2014