Type: TR, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m)
FA: Justin Edl
Page Views: 1,309 total · 14/month
Shared By: JNE on Nov 14, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

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This is a left-leaning, smooth on the inside, slightly overhanging, slightly flared, laser-cut splitter, tips crack, which widens to fingers/hands near the top. I found the climbing on this one to be very delicate, powerful, sequential, and engaging. The crux is about twenty feet up, where the angle steepens a little, the crack thins down a touch, and the feet get awkward. It is right up there with Cupcake, Old Dogs New Trick, or any of the classics at places like Mt. Woodson in terms of quality.


This is not actually at Little John's Tower but very close by. From Little John's Meditation Boulder, walk generally west along a faint game trail which will lead you out of the woods and onto a very slight ridge with sparse trees. Follow the "ridge" for a few hundred feet until you see some obvious boulders on the "ridge" at the edge of the woods. Go right (north) into the woods and into/around the boulders, and look around for this very striking line.


At least a few pads/spotters or a TR. This could also be led on a couple blue Alien-size cams as well as a finger-sized piece (probably a green or yellow Alien). Traditionally, lines like this were usually TR'd and often "bouldered" when dialed.