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Routes in The Anonymous Arete Boulder

Anonymous Arete, The V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Anonymous!
Page Views: 180 total · 5/month
Shared By: bheller on Nov 14, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

An Overlooked Gem

Locate the steep western arete feature that has a small and mostly flat starting area nestled between a few small maple trees to the right and a rock corridor to the left. Find the true sit start on obvious low crimps which lack any really good places to start your feet. One of the crimps is a thin, yet solid wafer-type hold. Find your magic body position, crimp hard, and throw your left hand up and left to a slopey left facing rail. Next a long move with your right hand to another beautiful sculpted sloper well above head height when you are sitting. Reset your hands and position and go big off the slopers with the right hand to the distant yet positive lip. Another move with the left hand to a huge edge and a final long move to the top lip of the boulder.

Location

Between the parking lot and the Round Room boulder, and a bit higher up slope. One of the few obvious lines in the area.

Walk down the slab to the south, or scooch down into the corridor to the north.

Protection

Crash pad over the stump is nice.

Photos

Nat Smale
Salt Lake City, UT
Nat Smale   Salt Lake City, UT
I agree on the grade. The dyno to the lip is tough, especially after doing the first couple of moves. Took me a few sessions. Excellent problem. East Gate is great. Another good one there is Matt's Problem. Nov 14, 2014
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
V5 in the black bible... yeah, I'm creeping some of those grades...trying to be honest Nov 14, 2014