Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 425 total · 9/month
Shared By: ferrells on Nov 13, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An odd line. Opens with a good couple of moves, medium-powerful, then traverses right through slopers and crimps to a balancey, but not as difficult, rockover.
Start seated hands on the cool jug rail that will be at face height. Shoot up left to your choice of pinches, and then right into the traverse. When people say "the pinch" I think they are talking about the slopier, higher one, but I thought it felt a lot better to just skip that hold, and make a longer reach out right from the lower left hand. Using that thing felt kind of forced. Maybe I didn't get full value of the boulder problem without that hold?
It does make sense to traverse right and rockover, sure, but wouldn't it make some sense to climb it straight up? There are definitely some holds there, though they would take some effort to clean. In any event, this boulder has 2 really fun moves (that make it definitely worth doing) at the beginning, and then a decent traverse.
This is the most question marks I've ever put in one problem description. So yeah, an odd line.

Location

Left of Cinderella and Cleopatra, there is a squat little wall with a short steep section of chalked holds and an obvious series of left hand pinches.

Protection

2-3 pads and a spotter. Landing slopes back while you are traversing, and it would be nice to have a spot in the event of a fall on this section.

Photos

0 Comments