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Routes in Main Boulder

A La Torry V3 6A
Dark Side of the Moon V0 4 PG13
Dogs of War V4+ 6B+
Goodbye Blue Sky V9-10 7C+
Magic Tricks V7 7A+
Post War Dream V2 5+
See Emily Play V0 4
Sunny Day Syd V3 6A
Terminal Frost V6 7A
Young Lust V5 6C
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Andy Bowen
Page Views: 754 total, 20/month
Shared By: Andy Bowen on Nov 12, 2014
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Everything is tiny, the last right foot/toe dime hold just before the "dyno" is the worst but provides enough to make the huge move to the finger rail 7-8 feet up from there :)

Location

This is just left of Young Lust, in the Pink Floyd area.

Protection

Pad and dudes.

Photos

Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
  V7-8
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
  V7-8
For someone who is 5'6", it is a huge dyno off of the left sidepull crimp. To me, it felt V7-8. Mar 12, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V7
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V7
Hey Andy,

As an admin, thanks for posting the route. It's a good line, between two other good lines. I tend to compare routes I have done across the country that are standards for the grade and then correlate similar movement. Either way, like I said, it climbs well and reminds me of My 15 Minutes, a V7 at Hueco Tanks on the closed Mushroom Boulder. Out of curiosity, PM me, which problem did someone say was V10? Also, if you want to head out bouldering and have me show you some lines that you might enjoy, just send me a message.

Jared Dec 30, 2014
Andy Bowen
Grand Junction, CO
 
Andy Bowen   Grand Junction, CO
 
Thank you for the feedback, Jared! I thought 9 might be too much, but a few "locals" told me it was as hard as their V10 near it (I wonder if they had really finished any of these "harder" lines). I thought "no way" and settled at 9 but feel much more of a V7-8 flag is best. So, thank you for the feedback! Helps me nail down better ratings. Dec 29, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V7
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V7
This is a good line and certainly going to be height-dependent and more dynamic the shorter you are. The move is a huge, 6 foot span deadpoint/subtle dyno for me at 5'11" with a +5, and I think the grade is approximately V7. Generating the movement off of the left triangle edge pinch and bumping to the right crimp/gaston and then setting feet for the huge move is the business. This route demands precise technique, crimp strength, and power. Dec 28, 2014