Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Andy Bowen
Page Views: 1,095 total · 20/month
Shared By: Andy Bowen on Nov 12, 2014
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Everything is tiny, the last right foot/toe dime hold just before the "dyno" is the worst but provides enough to make the huge move to the finger rail 7-8 feet up from there :)


This is just left of Young Lust, in the Pink Floyd area.


Pad and dudes.


Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
This is a good line and certainly going to be height-dependent and more dynamic the shorter you are. The move is a huge, 6 foot span deadpoint/subtle dyno for me at 5'11" with a +5, and I think the grade is approximately V7. Generating the movement off of the left triangle edge pinch and bumping to the right crimp/gaston and then setting feet for the huge move is the business. This route demands precise technique, crimp strength, and power. Dec 28, 2014
Andy Bowen
Grand Junction, CO
Andy Bowen   Grand Junction, CO
Thank you for the feedback, Jared! I thought 9 might be too much, but a few "locals" told me it was as hard as their V10 near it (I wonder if they had really finished any of these "harder" lines). I thought "no way" and settled at 9 but feel much more of a V7-8 flag is best. So, thank you for the feedback! Helps me nail down better ratings. Dec 29, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
Hey Andy,

As an admin, thanks for posting the route. It's a good line, between two other good lines. I tend to compare routes I have done across the country that are standards for the grade and then correlate similar movement. Either way, like I said, it climbs well and reminds me of My 15 Minutes, a V7 at Hueco Tanks on the closed Mushroom Boulder. Out of curiosity, PM me, which problem did someone say was V10? Also, if you want to head out bouldering and have me show you some lines that you might enjoy, just send me a message.

Jared Dec 30, 2014
Eric Carlos
Eric Carlos   depends
For someone who is 5'6", it is a huge dyno off of the left sidepull crimp. To me, it felt V7-8. Mar 12, 2016
There’s also a lay down start to this climb. I doubt I got the FA, but here’s a beta video if you're interested. It definitely adds to the grade.

youtu.be/75UggtMFaH8 Mar 15, 2018
Grant Eaton
Oxford, OH
Grant Eaton   Oxford, OH
Beta video of the V7: youtu.be/bq0zl9iaODA.

Personally, I thought the sit start was no bit harder. Nov 21, 2018