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Routes in The Taj Mahal

Air to the Thrown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crumbling Reality T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Honey Over Hotcakes S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meat Pipe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
North Headwall Direct? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pressed Ham T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Taj Mixed Climb T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Too Young to Fly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: maybe Andrew Matthews, it was a project as of 1 year ago, not sure
Page Views: 67 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jack Sparrow on Nov 12, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Honey Over Hotcakes is a quality line in a spectacular setting. So here's the story on the route. My friend who climbs in the area talked me into going to a very obscure cliff, he went to this area first with a local meet up climbing group about a year ago. The meet up was organized by the developers (I believe it was Tod Anderson and others) of this new crag to clean up the routes. Most of the routes on the wall saw FAs that day, although some of the harder lines did not. Honey Over Hotcakes was one of these lines. When I approached the cliff, it was clear to me this was one of the better looking routes on the wall. The climbing is exceptional (beta ahead).

Start out on easier climbing up the slightly overhanging wall for four bolts. Then arrive at a no hands rest, get it back, 'cause the crux is next. There are two ways to approach the crux: you can climb straight up on a very tiny crimp and a huge move or climb slightly left with a few moves of technical foot work to reach a good crimp. The crux is making a very powerful match on a decent crimp and moving to a mondo jug. From here, enjoy heroic, 11-, big moves on huge holds to the anchor. As far as the grade is concerned I think if you stayed direct this route would be closer to a painful 13-, but going a little left at the crux produces a pretty rad route that flows like honey over hotcakes. If anyone knows if this has seen a FA, please let me know so I can change it.

Location

As far as location is concerned, I'm not very sure. It was my one and only visit to this area.

Protection

Around 8 bolts.

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