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Unnamed Switching Corners Crack with Crumbly Slot Start

5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British


 Avg: 2 from 1 vote

Routes in Sinbad Wall

Act or React (?) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big "O", The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Old Man Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hot Sex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Bird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noose up T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Peg Leg T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinbad Was a Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spittness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiffany's Mall Tour T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Left Facing Corner with the Stacked Blocks Start T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Switching Corners Crack with Crumbly Slot Start T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Violator, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Walk the Plank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 183 total, 5/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Nov 11, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Very powerful start with creative legwork and thin tips jamming up to switching corners with fingers, off fingers, and ringlocks. Finish with thin hands crack to the anchors. Straight forward to access anchors from the route to the right for a TR.

This was pretty dirty and sandy and has probably only seen a few ascents. Fun out-of-the-box-type movement.

Location

at the top of the trail just left of Act or React handcrack.

Protection

very thin up to #1C4. The pro for the crux would be in crumbly rock.

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