Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sperlonga

Beatrice S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 186 total, 5/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Nov 11, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Monte Orlando is a big seaside cliff on the Mediterranean and is just one of many many climbing areas at Sperlonga. After approaching via rappelling, traverse (Pitch #1) to the big flat dry ledge 10m above the water to the base of the route.

The route climbs behind the huge freestanding pillar clearly visible from the tourist overlook and basically face climbs through a massive chimney feature ending up back at the top of the cliff where you started.
Wear helmets, a wondrous route with the water at your feet.
Monte Orlando has only multipitch routes and most other Sperlonga area routes are single pitch. Rates of all grades exist on Monte Orlando.

Location

Park your vehicle or take public transportation to the Monastery above Gaeta. Follow an ancient cobblestone road on foot up a few switchbacks past the historic "pirate cave" staircase down to the sea up until seeing signs marking "Climbing". Walk along the crest of the cliff and just before the very top, spy the Rappels down the "Chimney Route", 5.7. take care getting to the rap station. 4 longish rappels with a minimum 70m or 2 x 60m ropes. Then at the base, do a short traversing pitch lookers left.

Protection

8 QDs (some shoulder length), rappel devise. Good placements exist for a few cams aloen size to #1 Camalot size to really zip up a few run out sections, otherwise bolt or thread equipped.

Photos

percious
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
This climb is actually in Gaeta, behind the monastery. May 10, 2017