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Toxicodendron
5.11b,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 105
votes
FA: Andrew Wheatley in 2012
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Bald Rock Recre…
> Chocolate Factory
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned. The Ventura's have formed the Motherlode LLC to cover the liability of the land.
Description
A long slab with multiple thin cruxes and a steep finish.
Gently tread up a hollow flake for a few bolts before cutting left across the face and up some zig-zagging cracks to stance below the first crux. Balance and crimp through a thin crux and mantle into a body-sized hueco. Step left out of the hole, and take on the second crux using a poor, slopey pocket before a horizontal break. The rest of the route steepens, but the moves and holds never get harder than 5.10 to the chains.
Would definitely get another star without the hollow flake. However, it didn't seem dangerous or loose. Regardless, pull down, not out, and weight your feet when you are on this section.
Location
Right of Cat's Demise on a slab with a huge hueco about 60 feet up.
Protection
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Hooksett, New Hampshire
ann arbor, mi
This route is nearly perfect. Anywhere else in the country it would absolutely have lines at the base, but people don't come to the Red to climb this style. May 20, 2019
Beattyville, KY
Boulder, CO
New Englander currently tra…