Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Andrew Wheatley in 2012
Page Views: 313 total · 6/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Nov 10, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

A long slab with multiple thin cruxes and a steep finish.

Gently tread up a hollow flake for a few bolts before cutting left across the face and up some zig-zagging cracks to stance below the first crux. Balance and crimp through a thin crux and mantle into a body-sized hueco. Step left out of the hole, and take on the second crux using a poor, slopey pocket before a horizontal break. The rest of the route steepens, but the moves and holds never get harder than 5.10 to the chains.

Would definitely get another star without the hollow flake. However, it didn't seem dangerous or loose. Regardless, pull down, not out, and weight your feet when you are on this section.

Location

Right of Cat's Demise on a slab with a huge hueco about 60 feet up.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.11a
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.11a
This is a very good technical route and a good change of pace from the surrounding overhung climbs. No need to worry about the hollow flake, it is easy to avoid it. May 17, 2018