5.10b,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Danny Rice, Chris Dent 2004
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Sunnyside
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property. The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
Hop up to first hold, follow a finger crack in a left-facing dihedral to a first small roof and continue up to a second wider roof. Plug in some big cams and move out and then up.
Location
Left of rock shelter/cave/low arch that is left of Virgin Bolter Tag Team.
Protection
Standard rack with larger cams for the obvious roof.