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Routes in South Face

Granite Pancakes & Scrambled Eggs T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raspberry Bypass T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strawberry Overpass T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Gene Drake, 1969
Page Views: 853 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ian Leader on Nov 9, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

From the main wall, it's obvious that there should be a route on the far left of the Hogs Back S. face. The cracks and slabs are messy, but surely it will go - we'll be up and down quickly and back in time for tea...

The first pitch leads up and slightly right before the problem starts to appear. The flake / crack system leading to the obvious anchor vibrates ever so slightly when you hit it. Some bits are worse than others. There's just enough decent places to put pro, and you continue up and left onto the flake curving up to a small roof, where you there's enough cracks to feel good about building an anchor.

From here, go slightly left, and up a small flared crack. There seems to be no easy way out here, but as the crack runs out, you can shuffle left over the ridge (great feeling of stepping into the unknown!) to find some bulbous features and an easy scramble up to the top, past a dead tree bent over in the shape of a Japanese Tori (watch out for rope drag here).

Worth climbing? Sure, but only if you like easy climbs on vibrating flakes; mostly it was fun because it was new and unknown. Not found in any guide book or on the web, so let me know if it has a pre-existing name / FA date.

Location

Rap off the west end of Hogsback, or bushwhack left from the Pony Express through a mess of trails and boulders to get to the two trees in a crack.

Start right of two bolted routes.

Protection

Double rack of cams, a few nuts, no bolts.

Photos

Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
 
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
 
We liked this route. Short approach, full sun, good views, clean granite, and wind blown tree.

There is a bolted anchor about 50 ft up - stop here to TR Raspberry Bypass 10b and Strawberry Bypass 10b, or continue up and left, then back right to the top.

Descend the 4th class gully to the west.

There is a fun alternate 5.8 finish (maybe one 5.8 move). From the 3 bolt anchor, traverse right to a series of right facing underclings. Finish on 5.5 PG slab. Belay at tree. Jun 25, 2017
Ian Leader  
 
Thanks Petch - the name is appropriate! May 27, 2017
Petch  
This climb is called Peanut Brittle. FA by Gene Drake 1969. May 11, 2017
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Very nice, thanks for sharing Ian. Nov 20, 2014

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