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Routes in Colflesh Area - misc problems

"15 Project" V5-6 6C+
Bacon V0 4
Bodysnap V4 6B
Bodysnap Sit V6 7A
Colflesh Direct V5 6C
Energy V1 5
Green Eggs V1 5
Gumdrops V1 5
Ham V1 5
Havit V2 5+
Homefries V0 4
Inner Light V0 4
Jenn Savage V2 5+
Malcolm X V3 6A
Nectar Vector V1 5
Oh Shit V0 4
Outer Dark V0 4
Pancakes V0 4
Posion Ivy V1+ 5
Scrapple V0 4
Sur La Pointe V5 6C
Terretti V2 5+
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,272 total · 27/month
Shared By: Tim Waystrong on Nov 8, 2014
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

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Description

An area classic, one of the most tried in all of Gretna!

Sit start with a good undercling and a crimp. Pull up and snag the side pull, pick some feet and make crux long move out left to good crimps. Follow the crimps left up to a big sloper. Then make a tension move to the lip to a causal topout.

Although this is called Body Snap Sit the only move it shares with Body Snap is the top out.

Location

Obvious low starting holds on the Body Snap Boulder.

Protection

Multiple pads and spotter

Photos

Sean Hoffecker
Central PA
  V6
Sean Hoffecker   Central PA
  V6
What's the story with the start--is the block on for your right foot or is that to be avoided? Easy enough move with it on but pretty damn stout without it. What's the general consensus here? Dec 24, 2014
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
 
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
 
Sean. I was told by multiple locals that they use the block for their foot. Dec 28, 2014
dbick
  V6+
dbick  
  V6+
At least years comp the detached block was marked as being "off". Definitely harder, and better, without it. I still see a lot of people using it though, so I don't think anyone really cares. Apr 3, 2015
kihap
Doylestown, PA
 
kihap   Doylestown, PA
 
I concur with dbick--using the block takes away from the climb. The first moves are my favorite. They feel so good, and there're so many different, cool ways to start. The block stifles creativity by decreasing the technical difficulty of the climb. If pulling the beginning moves without the block isn't accessible to a climber, however, for the love of fun use it! The rest of the problem climbs really well, too. Nov 21, 2015
craigf
Philadelphia
  V6
craigf   Philadelphia
  V6
Do the problem block off. It makes a difference. Apr 25, 2016

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