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Into The Wild
5.10- R,
Trad, 160 ft (48 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Seth Tart / Dennis Buice
N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Moore's Wall
> Moore's Wall (R…
> Amphitheater
Description
This line could not be more appropriately named; for it is all about the experience and not the grade. Minus the first blocky 25 feet, this climb is really amazing and well worth the venture if your up for the challenge. Rack up for some chimney, face, dihedral, roof and arete climbing through massive amounts of exposure. This route belongs at Moores.
Climb the right side of the back amphitheatre wall, as if to climb Highwire. Make your way right into the cave feature 25' up the chimney. There's plenty of small cams hidden within the small cracks of the right chimney wall. Climb the chimney, then out left onto the face and up a small dihedral. Make sure your pro is good before the technical runout up the face leads to a strenuous stance beneath the roof. Get some tough to place gear in a slot out left underneath the roof on a 48" runner and a quickdraw. Less than this will cause rope drag. Pull right around the roof and into a good stance in the 'dish' feature. Get your wits about you before venturing up and left across the belly of the prow to the super high exposure of the prow's arete. Turn the left side of the arete to the headwall above and climb straight up the face to the top.
Location
Left of Breaking Rocks, on the adjacent wall.
Protection
Standard rack up to 3" with multiple 1/2" and 3/4" cams. A couple micro cams are useful, as well as an assortment of slings.
I didn't post the original comment to start a pissing contest, and went out of my way to be congenial in my follow-up post to a post far less so. As far as not submitting the route earlier, why should I have? I don't submit every climb or variation of a climb I've done? For people who get their Moore's Wall route info from MP, there are far more suitable classic lines than this one. This climb was done well before MP even existed, and almost a decade before I it new it existed. Jul 26, 2016