Type: Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 897 total · 11/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Nov 7, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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I am just rounding out the database.

This can be a fun few hours in the sun on crampons in the warm months, climbing about 1200 feet, or a snow slog (or ski descent?) in the winter. Maybe it is just a nice hump to get in shape for somewhere else?

Anyhow, climb to the top "standing wave" (serac), and traverse either just left, or perhaps lower, depending on conditions. This puts you directly on the trail to the summit between Gray's and Torrey's.


This is the gully that meets the ridge on the left (south) side of Torrey's summit. (Dead Dog Couloir hits on the right (north) side of the summit, hitting Kelso's ridge just at the end of the knife edge traverse.)

To descend, pick your own adventure: reverse the route, climb another 350 feet to the summit and go down the Kelso Ridge, descend left/south to the col and take the trail down, or hump up to Gray's Peak (3 feet higher than Torrey's), and walk down.


Classic snow gully. I've done it maybe 8 times and never brought more than an ice axe and crampons (well, skis once). Suit yourself depending on the time of the year.