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Routes in Dualism crag

Looking Like a 5.11 TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Seam of the Crop T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: 11/6/14??
Page Views: 273 total, 7/month
Shared By: Howard on Nov 6, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Unlike many J Tree routes, crux comes midway on the route through the first few (available) thin lieback moves once established in the thin fingers crack. Feet are pretty well blank. Start on the thin edges for hands above the bottom of the ramp where the ground on the right of the crag begins ascending. Work up the left facing flake and reach into a good knob at the start of the crack before firing the lieback crux thin fingers crack. Reach up into the horizontal crack and traverse leftward with jams before ascending the slab.

Location

Far side of crag below obvious up and right diagonal seam. Can walk off to the right or set up TR anchor on far right, just to right of obvious grainy dihedral.

Protection

After 10' of easy climbing, a #3 or 4 camalot can be placed in the sideways crack to the left just before entering the diagonal finger crack.

Photos

Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
 
May be a tricky lead due to thin nuts through the crux. Don't want to sandbag; count on the route feeling 10+ if not harder. Easy to TR first. Waiting for the consensus. Nov 6, 2014