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Routes in 1. Left Side

Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inspectrum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pillars of Dickulese T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Watermelon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
What's Up Yankee? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Wit's End "Without" (the branch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Ross & Tana Cathcart Aug. &, 1973
Page Views: 64 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 5, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

OK - First, I've "Moved" this climb from the Height-of-Land section (where previous guidebooks have put it) to the "Left End" section because its start is more in line with that area, being at the extreme right end of the "Lucky Charms" ledge.

Second - Re the star: as per Webster, the STARTing corner is really "dirty", even ugly. The 1 star comes from the average of the 2nd pitch (2 stars) and the 1st pitch (ZERO stars).

Approach - From the base of the "Pillars" area, hike up past the pointed boulder and make a scrambling move to gain the base ledge below the dark, ugly corner. This is about 25-30 ft right of "B-Day Brushings". Alternately, from the Height-of-Land section, from about 35-40 ft below the highest point of land, move climber's left and down on a (usually) leaf-covered, sloping ledge to the corner.

P1 (as climbed by the FA party) Climb the corner, then move right on a horizontal slab to belay in the trees. 40-50 ft 5.5 (probably "old school" 5.5)

P2 Retrace steps left, then up the slab and climb between two fairly large flakes (Var.) that are about 2 ft apart. (Good gear.) The left of these flakes is prominently Right-facing, but the right one is more of a "pinnacle" flake with faces in both directions. From the top of the left flake, step left, then back right across the narrow lichen streak (holds brushed in 2014) and up friction 25+/- ft (5.4 +/-) to a flake that curves right at its top. (not the greatest gear, small TCU, e.g. Green Alien)

Now either: 1) Move left to finish on "B-Day" (usually the driest) or 2) continue up passing the left end of the prominent horizontal overlap (good gear). 150-160 ft 5.5

Var (?) Maybe a variation, maybe not, who knows which "flakes" were climbed 40 years ago?! The "Razor Flake Variation" also "climbs flakes" per the route description in Webster, but since Paul Ross is not very tall, and the opening move is height-dependent, I'd think the described P1 is more in line with the original route of FA.

The "Razor Flake" variation: Climb to the top of the right-hand of the two flakes. [You are now about 6-8 ft left of the large solution pockets of "Slab of the Woods".] Make a long, right-hand reach to a "Thank God" jug and mantel. Now up the slab to a razor-sharp flake (somewhat hollow, poor gear), about half-way up this step left over it and climb thin friction to rejoin the regular route at the flake. 40-50 ft 5.7 (+/-) R/X

Protection

Medium cams for the large flakes, smaller cams and/or TCUs for the upper flakes. The variation has limited gear possibilities. One MIGHT sling the "jug"???

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