Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Ten Minutes of Warmth

5.10a, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 16 votes
FA: Bill Robbins & John Giebelhauson (1997)
Washington > Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Echo Basin > Sunshine Wall > (b) Tilted Pillars

Description

This is a pretty good climb, stiff for the grade. The harder part is the lower seam of a crack.
If you are not well versed in thin cracks, you may want to TR this, pretty pumpy placing gear near crux start.

Location

Starts just right of Preying Mantel. For both of these climbs it helps to start the belay on the ledges above the trail, but one could lead up from the trail as well.

Protection

Single rack, tips to #4 camalot. Bring a #5 or #6 cam to protect the wide but easier section to anchors. This route ends at an independent chain anchor 10' below and to the right of "Preying Mantel" BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCK

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Removed 2 large blocks that were obstructing the fist jam/mantle about 1/2 way up route..worthy climb, might put in a separate anchor soon for this one... Mar 8, 2018
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Hi Oren, I always thought this was pretty good too. The last time I did it I attempted to continue all the way up the crack, it goes OW, but pretty easy, and gets really loose and dirty, so I made a run-out traverse over to Preying Mantel. If you were into cleaning out the upper portion, I think a new anchor is good, just don't think it should be too low. Mar 8, 2018
Hangdog Hank
Leavenworth, WA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] 15 feet of awkward 5.10- fingers, to 10 feet of hands (the only good part of the route), to a 5.7 choss gully filled with an enormous amount of loose rock in the crack, make sure your belayer is standing to the side. Nov 14, 2021
Kyle O
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Easily top-roped from the Preying Mantle anchors. The lower finger crack part is definitely harder than 5.9 IMO and placing pro can be strenuous there. But, the climbing eases considerably higher up. Our top-rope knocked a fist size rock off on my belayer and hot him in the arm; be careful! Bring pro .2 to a single four with doubles in .2-.4. Oct 22, 2022