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Routes in Tilted Pillars

Another Notch in My Lipstick Case T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chapstick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preying Mantle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Professor Pogue's Precarious Pinnacle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ten Minutes of warmth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Guys and Heather T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bill Robins, John Giebelhauson, Nov. 1997
Page Views: 130 total · 3/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Nov 4, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This is a pretty good climb, stiff for the grade. The harder part is the lower seam of a crack.
If you are not well versed in thin cracks, you may want to TR this, pretty pumpy placing gear near crux start.

Location

Starts just right of Preying Mantel. For both of these climbs it helps to start the belay on the ledges above the trail, but one could lead up from the trail as well.

Protection

mostly small gear and gradually widens to a chimney. You could end on the Preying Mantel anchor or top out on the Mesa above. It is a easy walk off to the left( west) to the 2nd gully.

BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCK

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Oren Cowlishaw
Tacoma, WA
 
Oren Cowlishaw   Tacoma, WA
 
Removed 2 large blocks that were obstructing the fist jam/mantle about 1/2 way up route..worthy climb, might put in a separate anchor soon for this one... Mar 8, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
Hi Oren, I always thought this was pretty good too. The last time I did it I attempted to continue all the way up the crack, it goes OW, but pretty easy, and gets really loose and dirty, so I made a run-out traverse over to Preying Mantel. If you were into cleaning out the upper portion, I think a new anchor is good, just don't think it should be too low. Mar 8, 2018

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