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Routes in Sugarloaf

Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deja View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dreadnaught T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fistful of Stoppers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heroes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Magic Carpet Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Return to Sender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Sole Fusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soul Confusion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superman Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tier Pressure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Valar Dohaeris T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Mike Loitsch and Tom Rosecrans
Page Views: 1,129 total, 30/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Nov 3, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Stellar. The best of the loaf. Coupled with Soul Fusion, climbers can have the best slab day of their lives. Another must do for the 5.10 slab climber. 4 pitches of varied climbing...hard friction, crack climbing and pulling overhangs. These pitches are graded 10a 9+ 10c 7 by the FAs. Im posting my opinions for now and am curious to see a consensus down the road. Friction moves can be tricky to grade and feel so much harder on lead. I felt like p1 was PG but after the first bolt the rest of the climb is G.

P1 5.10b - A test of your rubber and your head. Climb slab past horizontal to first bolt. Be careful here as you have to commit to hard moves on pure friction to make the clip. More hard moves lead up to another bolt. Join a crack and follow it to a stance under a 4' roof (bomber gear here). Over this, then up more tenuous slab, passing a few bolts to a fixed anchor.

P2 5.9 - Up past bolts arching left to a right facing corner. Up the corner (gear) then head dead left following a photogenic horizontal crack traverse to anchor.

P3 - 5.10a/b A beautiful and outstanding pitch. The Money. Straight up on increasingly difficult slab, clipping 4 bolts. The super thin crux comes just before reaching the security of the nice vertical crack. (The FAs rate this 10c but we thought the move was no harder than the multiple moves on the first pitch.) The bolt is in your face and it is literally just one move. Continue up the splitter crack, with one thoughtful section to anchors under obvious large overhangs.

P4 - 5.8 Dramatic but easier than it looks. Step up into a steep corner and pull around overhang/arete (bolt) to the right. Trend left up the face to a crack system that angles back right and through a final overlap (cool move) then easier slab to the anchors.

Location

Left of Heroes. 2 bolts lead to 3' roof capping a left facing corner.

Protection

Gear to 2". Quickdraws. All pitches are a combo of bolts and gear. Bolted rap anchors on top of each pitch. Can be done with a 60 m rope. We had a 70 m so be careful on raps with 60.

Photos

Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
Good name. Now if it wAs say valar morghulis I might not trust those bolts. Aug 31, 2015
Gunkiemike--we cleaned that line last fall but found the bottom not worthy. The splitter up to the second belay was awesome, easy, but lacking any redeeming climbing up to it. There will be another route to the right of VD, left of Heroes hopefully by the end of this weekend. Aug 19, 2015
The new route to the right of Soul Confusion is Valar Dohaeris 10/a/b. Sister route of SC. Details on Jim and Jeremy's site. Looks like Gunkie Mike climbed it. If you do both routes you get 8 beautiful (If I do say so myself)pitches without moving your pack--1 rope, gear to 2 inches. Aug 19, 2015
Folks need to heed the description of the start carefully, as there's a new bolted line going in just 30' or so to the right. No details yet about what that route is, but it's NOT Sole Confusion.

Other "new route" info - About 80' left of the start of Confusion is a narrow slab of clean rock (note - at Sugarloaf, this is a "relative" term) that reaches the ground. Climb the trees immediately left of this slab until a crack is reached. It will be reached on the L edge of the rock "about 5 trees up". Follow this crack for 50' or so to a sloping ledge of pine needles at a broken left-facing corner 20' below a large spruce tree. Either climb the corner to the tree or follow the crack system you've been on as it climbs above the level of the spruce tree. Pendulum/tension traverse/jump over to the spruce tree and belay (140 ft pitch 5.6 until the last part which COULD BE 5.8) A beautiful crack (5.5 or 6) leads directly above about 50' to the 2nd belay bolts of Sole Confusion. Aug 18, 2015
sara pax
western mass
 
sara pax   western mass
 
Awesome line! I'd say pitch 1& 3 are about the same. 5.10b is about right. I felt pitch 2 was 5.9. Aug 18, 2015
Mike Loitsch
Lake George, New York
Mike Loitsch   Lake George, New York
Thank You for the excellent description! I'm excited to see what everyone else thinks! Nov 23, 2014