Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
Routes in Sugarloaf
|Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Deja View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Dreadnaught T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Fistful of Stoppers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Heroes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Magic Carpet Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Return to Sender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R|
|Sole Fusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Soul Confusion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Superman Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tier Pressure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Valar Dohaeris T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Mike Loitsch and Tom Rosecrans|
|Page Views:||1,129 total, 30/month|
|Shared By:||Benjaminadk on Nov 3, 2014|
DescriptionStellar. The best of the loaf. Coupled with Soul Fusion, climbers can have the best slab day of their lives. Another must do for the 5.10 slab climber. 4 pitches of varied climbing...hard friction, crack climbing and pulling overhangs. These pitches are graded 10a 9+ 10c 7 by the FAs. Im posting my opinions for now and am curious to see a consensus down the road. Friction moves can be tricky to grade and feel so much harder on lead. I felt like p1 was PG but after the first bolt the rest of the climb is G.
P1 5.10b - A test of your rubber and your head. Climb slab past horizontal to first bolt. Be careful here as you have to commit to hard moves on pure friction to make the clip. More hard moves lead up to another bolt. Join a crack and follow it to a stance under a 4' roof (bomber gear here). Over this, then up more tenuous slab, passing a few bolts to a fixed anchor.
P2 5.9 - Up past bolts arching left to a right facing corner. Up the corner (gear) then head dead left following a photogenic horizontal crack traverse to anchor.
P3 - 5.10a/b A beautiful and outstanding pitch. The Money. Straight up on increasingly difficult slab, clipping 4 bolts. The super thin crux comes just before reaching the security of the nice vertical crack. (The FAs rate this 10c but we thought the move was no harder than the multiple moves on the first pitch.) The bolt is in your face and it is literally just one move. Continue up the splitter crack, with one thoughtful section to anchors under obvious large overhangs.
P4 - 5.8 Dramatic but easier than it looks. Step up into a steep corner and pull around overhang/arete (bolt) to the right. Trend left up the face to a crack system that angles back right and through a final overlap (cool move) then easier slab to the anchors.