Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13
Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||RH & RW Oct. 31, 2014|
|Page Views:||60 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Nov 3, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionInteresting and varied climbing throughout the first pitch.
APPROACH: Follow directions towards Road to Lhasa, but cut across the woods to a descending ramp (passing start of What's Up Yankee's "ugly" corner) and make a tricky 4-5 ft descent down a slab, then hike up and left 20-25 ft gaining the ledge at the base of Birthday Brushings (and 25-30 ft left, the start of Lucky Charms) [See Topo of base area of this part of the cliff posted to Lucky Charms]
Alternately, from the "Base Area" around "Pillars of Dickulese" via the pointed boulder and the "Lucky Charms" ledge. (Topo posted to "Lucky Charms")
START- About 20 ft right of "Lucky Charms", or roughly half way between the starts of "What's Up Yankee?" and "Lucky Charms" is a blocky buttress-like formation about 20 ft high. (See Topo) Brushed rock and a bolt are visible above.
P1 - Climb the blocky formation (photo) [ about 5.6, small wires helpful, nearly zero placements for cams]. At the bolt, go straight up [Var.] (about 5.7+, and nearly a clone of the top move of Arrow at the Gunks, height dependent) to the left-facing flake, up this nearly to the top (med cams). Step right, then up to the shallow right-facing corner (green Alien-sized TCU down low) then left-ish on a dike-like intrusion to a jug. Step left and up slab 30-40 ft to the bolted belay/rap station. 120-125 ft 5.7+ [ 115 ft, (35m) to rap]
Variation - A few feet left of the bolt the slab goes about a grade or two easier.
P2 - Directly up the slab (bolt about 50 ft up.) Above that, a rounded flake on the right offers a gear opportunity. Exit to a vegetated ledge (The slab's exit footholds were brushed in 2014, and remain clean in 2017), make one move on rock to the pine tree anchor above. 110 ft 5.3-5.4 R
Descent - Rap the route with two ropes or with a single FULL LENGTH 70 meter.