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Routes in 1. Left Side

Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inspectrum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pillars of Dickulese T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Watermelon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
What's Up Yankee? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Wit's End "Without" (the branch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: RH & RW Oct. 31, 2014
Page Views: 66 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 3, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

Interesting and varied climbing throughout the first pitch.

APPROACH: Follow directions towards Road to Lhasa, but cut across the woods to a descending ramp (passing start of What's Up Yankee's "ugly" corner) and make a tricky 4-5 ft descent down a slab, then hike up and left 20-25 ft gaining the ledge at the base of Birthday Brushings (and 25-30 ft left, the start of Lucky Charms) [See Topo of base area of this part of the cliff posted to Lucky Charms]
Alternately, from the "Base Area" around "Pillars of Dickulese" via the pointed boulder and the "Lucky Charms" ledge. (Topo posted to "Lucky Charms")

START- About 20 ft right of "Lucky Charms", or roughly half way between the starts of "What's Up Yankee?" and "Lucky Charms" is a blocky buttress-like formation about 20 ft high. (See Topo) Brushed rock and a bolt are visible above.

P1 - Climb the blocky formation (photo) [ about 5.6, small wires helpful, nearly zero placements for cams]. At the bolt, go straight up [Var.] (about 5.7+, and nearly a clone of the top move of Arrow at the Gunks, height dependent) to the left-facing flake, up this nearly to the top (med cams). Step right, then up to the shallow right-facing corner (green Alien-sized TCU down low) then left-ish on a dike-like intrusion to a jug. Step left and up slab 30-40 ft to the bolted belay/rap station. 120-125 ft 5.7+ [ 115 ft, (35m) to rap]

Variation - A few feet left of the bolt the slab goes about a grade or two easier.

P2 - Directly up the slab (bolt about 50 ft up.) Above that, a rounded flake on the right offers a gear opportunity. Exit to a vegetated ledge (The slab's exit footholds were brushed in 2014, and remain clean in 2017), make one move on rock to the pine tree anchor above. 110 ft 5.3-5.4 R

Descent - Rap the route with two ropes or with a single FULL LENGTH 70 meter.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Tiny to small wire nuts for the opening moves, small-med TCU and Med. Cams.

Photos

John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.7+
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.7+
Great job Bob. A fun route that's worth searching out. Climb it:) Nov 3, 2015

More About Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13

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