Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,792 total · 31/month
Shared By: ferrells on Nov 3, 2014
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description

Subtle, powerful, and sought-after. This line is among the most beautiful in the southeastern US, and climbs exceptionally well. Many come to Rocktown to climb this boulder alone. Tales abound of very strong accomplished climbers leaving empty-handed.

Start in the middle of the face on underclings. The left undercling is a big obvious choice. The right undercling is less obvious (2-3 right hand undercling choices), so I will leave it to you to find the videos online to see what others have thought about what is the appropriate place to start. Get your feet on the wall, and start doing these incredible, tensiony, balancey, fluid moves between holds that aren't quite angled the way that you would like them.

This is often called the best problem in Rocktown (or even the south east), but that's a hard thing to say to the 99.5% of people who visit that will not be able to do it.
I think it's probably the best problem harder than v8 in Rocktown. It gets the "best ever" title because it is absolutely incredible, and it is incredibly hard, and we love what we can't have, right? A great many problems are just as special for their grades in Rocktown, just as this one is special for v10. So enjoy the area for having some of the best problems for their grades in the States.

Location

On the Golden Harvest boulder, which also holds Golden Shower. Just downhill from Blue. Your best bet for finding it is Brayack's guide, which has a great map and directions in it.

Protection

2 pads, as you're moving around a bit on the wall. Flat all around at the base. Quite safe.

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