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Routes in Peg Leg Wall

Best For Your Stick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chili Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clutching At Straws S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dough Daddy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamed, The Pumped, The French, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Miss Money Penny S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Promised Land S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Wax S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Take It To The Bank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown Short Warmup S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
catch the wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
close to the bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
men of iron T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
surf's up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown, hopefully someone can add this info
Page Views: 338 total, 9/month
Shared By: slim on Nov 2, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Take It To The Bank is a fairly new route on an old panel. Whoever put up this route (and likely the 2 new ones to the right) did a good job seeing these lines and putting them together. It is kind of a non-typical, harder Shelf route - not a whole lot of heavy crimping or brutal pocket pulling on this one. If you are a boulderer, this should be right up your alley.

Begin up some jumbled blocks to a slightly chossy, right-facing dihedral. Cruise up on easy climbing, with the worst looking block, 'the plank', actually being pretty solid. The dihedral quickly gets harder as it arcs over into an undercling that fades out. Make a surprisingly pesky traverse to a blunt arete of sorts, and get a poor shake. A monster move to a pitbull mini-jug, followed by easier-but-not-cake climbing will get you to the anchors.

If you nail the PMJ, do whatever it takes to make it to the chains - you really don't want to fondle this hold too many times....

Location

This route is located on the left most of the three major panels at the Peg Leg Wall. The approach trail comes up to the rightmost panel, walk left about 100 yards to a black panel with 5 routes on it. This is the second route from the left and starts up a chossy, right-facing dihedral that arcs right and fades out.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts and anchors. You can use the first bolt on the route to the left, or just stick clip the second bolt. The bolts are placed in the best locations for clipping, but the traversing nature of the route combined with the ledge below and the dihedral to the left makes falling at the first crux kind of spooky but not unsafe.

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