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The Joker
5.12+,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 6
votes
FA: JP Ouellet (FFA)
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> State Highway 313
> Random - Unsorted
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Really cool overhanging Zig-Zaging finger Crack. Hard version of Anunaki... The start is thin but easy. One hard move gets you to the finger crack. From there it's .4-.5-.75 Camalots.
Location
Drive up 313. Locate a dirt Road just after Miles marker 16. From there you should be able to see the Matchstick which is a small tower that looks like a matchstick... Walk around to the right of the huge massif. The route is located on an overhanging north facing wall just around the corner. If you have a 4x4 truck you could drive a ways and walk just a few minutes to the route. If you park at the start of the dirt road, just follow it for about 15-20 minutes until you see the crack...
Protection
1 each .2 / .3 / .4 X4 /#1 C4
2 each #2 C4
3-4 each #.4 C4 / #.75 C4
5-6 each # .5 C4
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