Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in 1. Left Side
|Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Inspectrum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pillars of Dickulese T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Watermelon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|What's Up Yankee? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Wit's End "Without" (the branch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Ed Webster & Kathryn Rogers Sept 1981|
|Page Views:||62 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Nov 1, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionAPPROACH: Follow directions towards Road to Lhasa, but cut across the woods to a descending ramp (passing start of What's Up Yankee's "ugly" corner) and make a tricky 4-5 ft descent down a slab, then hike up and left 20-25 ft gaining the ledge at the base of Birthday Brushings (and 25-30 ft left, the start of Lucky Charms) [See Topo of base area of this part of the cliff posted to Lucky Charms]
START- On a ledge about 40 feet left of the black corner of "What's Up Yankee?", or about 50-60 feet right of, and about 30 ft higher than, the start of "Pillars of Dickulese". (See photo, and/or Topo, of the LEFT Side Area.)
DESCRIPTION: Very nice, varied climbing. The first 30-40 ft of this section of the cliff is much like that of the Bonsai-Sub-Slab, in that it is steep enough to not be "just friction slab". The "Direct" variation on P1 has moves similar to those of Cruise Control & Perfect Wave.
P1- START at the left end of the "Lucky Charms Ledge", by a clump of trees. In 2014 there was a 12ft maple about 15-20 ft up, and a piton sticking out about 30-35 ft up.(Photo) Climb up to the piton (Small-to-Med. cam backs up) then up to a higher horizontal crack. Move up and right (Var#1) to the obvious left-facing flake for protection, then diagonal back left to a gear belay in an often-wet pocket 6 ft below the small pine tree. 80-90 ft The F.A. party rated this pitch 5.7R, but I would give it 5.5-5.6 PG. Don't miss the really neat wire nut placement in the "hole" above the tree. (photo)
Variation#1 "Lucky Charms Direct"- Above the piton, climb directly up the slab, past 2 bolts, to the belay. Maybe 5.7 / 5.7+ right of the bolts [left-hand clips], slightly harder left of the bolts.
P2 - (As per the FA) Step left from the belay [Var#2] and climb up to the trees. This is extremely close to the "Pillars" 2nd pitch, if not the same. "Pillars" has one protection bolt on its P2.
Variation#2 "Direct continuation" - Move right from the belay 6-8ft (solution pocket on the left takes a Tri-Cam, as does another on the right a bit higher**) and then straight up (pin driven down into a poor flake about 1/2 way up) to the trees. Exit moves brushed in 2014. 120-130 ft 5.3-5.4 R/X May be wet.
NOTE:** From here it is also possible to move right 20-25 ft to reach the bolted belay at the end of P1 of Birthday Brushings. About 5.3-5.4 R
Descent - Rap "Pillars" from the large pine tree with TWO 2-rope raps, or two raps with a single rope 70 Meter (Required!) down "Birthday Brushings" (about 50 ft climber's-right of the large pine of "Pillars".