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Routes in 1. Left Side

Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inspectrum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pillars of Dickulese T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Watermelon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
What's Up Yankee? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Wit's End "Without" (the branch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Webster & Kathryn Rogers Sept 1981
Page Views: 62 total, 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 1, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

APPROACH: Follow directions towards Road to Lhasa, but cut across the woods to a descending ramp (passing start of What's Up Yankee's "ugly" corner) and make a tricky 4-5 ft descent down a slab, then hike up and left 20-25 ft gaining the ledge at the base of Birthday Brushings (and 25-30 ft left, the start of Lucky Charms) [See Topo of base area of this part of the cliff posted to Lucky Charms]

START- On a ledge about 40 feet left of the black corner of "What's Up Yankee?", or about 50-60 feet right of, and about 30 ft higher than, the start of "Pillars of Dickulese". (See photo, and/or Topo, of the LEFT Side Area.)

DESCRIPTION: Very nice, varied climbing. The first 30-40 ft of this section of the cliff is much like that of the Bonsai-Sub-Slab, in that it is steep enough to not be "just friction slab". The "Direct" variation on P1 has moves similar to those of Cruise Control & Perfect Wave.

P1- START at the left end of the "Lucky Charms Ledge", by a clump of trees. In 2014 there was a 12ft maple about 15-20 ft up, and a piton sticking out about 30-35 ft up.(Photo) Climb up to the piton (Small-to-Med. cam backs up) then up to a higher horizontal crack. Move up and right (Var#1) to the obvious left-facing flake for protection, then diagonal back left to a gear belay in an often-wet pocket 6 ft below the small pine tree. 80-90 ft The F.A. party rated this pitch 5.7R, but I would give it 5.5-5.6 PG. Don't miss the really neat wire nut placement in the "hole" above the tree. (photo)

Variation#1 "Lucky Charms Direct"- Above the piton, climb directly up the slab, past 2 bolts, to the belay. Maybe 5.7 / 5.7+ right of the bolts [left-hand clips], slightly harder left of the bolts.

P2 - (As per the FA) Step left from the belay [Var#2] and climb up to the trees. This is extremely close to the "Pillars" 2nd pitch, if not the same. "Pillars" has one protection bolt on its P2.

Variation#2 "Direct continuation" - Move right from the belay 6-8ft (solution pocket on the left takes a Tri-Cam, as does another on the right a bit higher**) and then straight up (pin driven down into a poor flake about 1/2 way up) to the trees. Exit moves brushed in 2014. 120-130 ft 5.3-5.4 R/X May be wet.
NOTE:** From here it is also possible to move right 20-25 ft to reach the bolted belay at the end of P1 of Birthday Brushings. About 5.3-5.4 R

Descent - Rap "Pillars" from the large pine tree with TWO 2-rope raps, or two raps with a single rope 70 Meter (Required!) down "Birthday Brushings" (about 50 ft climber's-right of the large pine of "Pillars".

Protection

Normal rack, small wire for the "hole". [See photo of "Neat hole..."] TriCams for P2 Variation
John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.7 PG13
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.7 PG13
Nice moves on coarse textured rock. Don't miss the small hole down low that takes a wire. You'll probably put your finger in it. Nov 3, 2015