Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Webster & Kathryn Rogers Sept 1981
Page Views: 211 total · 3/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 1, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

APPROACH: Follow directions towards Road to Lhasa, but cut across the woods to a descending ramp (passing start of What's Up Yankee's "ugly" corner) and make a tricky 4-5 ft descent down a slab, then hike up and left 20-25 ft gaining the ledge at the base of Birthday Brushings (and 25-30 ft left, the start of Lucky Charms) [See Topo of base area of this part of the cliff posted to Lucky Charms]

START- On a ledge about 40 feet left of the black corner of "What's Up Yankee?", or about 50-60 feet right of, and about 30 ft higher than, the start of "Pillars of Dickulese". (See photo, and/or Topo, of the LEFT Side Area.)

DESCRIPTION: Very nice, varied climbing. The first 30-40 ft of this section of the cliff is much like that of the Bonsai-Sub-Slab, in that it is steep enough to not be "just friction slab". The "Direct" variation on P1 has moves similar to those of Cruise Control & Perfect Wave.

P1- START at the left end of the "Lucky Charms Ledge", by a clump of trees. In 2014 there was a 12ft maple about 15-20 ft up, and a piton sticking out about 30-35 ft up.(Photo) Climb up to the piton (Small-to-Med. cam backs up) then up to a higher horizontal crack. Per the FA, move up and right (Var#1) to the obvious left-facing flake for protection, then diagonal back left to a gear belay in an often-wet pocket 6 ft below the small pine tree. 80-90 ft The F.A. party rated this pitch 5.7R, but I would give it 5.5-5.6 PG. Don't miss the really neat wire nut placement in the "hole" above the tree. (photo)

Variation#1 "Lucky Charms Direct"- Above the piton, climb directly up the slab, past 2 bolts, maybe 5.7 / 5.7+ right of the bolts [left-hand clips], slightly harder left of the bolts. to the belay. [1 bolt, back-up with gear]   Rather than belay here, you can also move up and right to the bolted belay of Birthday Brushings. Tricams in holes provide protection. Finish on P2 of "Birthday" or rap from its P1 anchor with a 70m or double ropes.

P2 - (As per the FA) Step left from the belay [Var#2] and climb up to the trees. This is extremely close to the "Pillars" 2nd pitch, if not the same. "Pillars" has one protection bolt on its P2.

Variation#2 "Direct continuation" - Move right from the belay 6-8ft (solution pocket on the left takes a Tri-Cam, as does another on the right a bit higher**) and then straight up (pin driven down into a poor flake about 1/2 way up) to the trees. Exit moves brushed in 2014. 120-130 ft 5.3-5.4 R/X May be wet. 

Descent - Rap "Pillars" from the large pine tree with TWO 2-rope raps, or two raps with a single rope 70 Meter down "Birthday Brushings" (about 40+/- ft climber's-right of the large pine of "Pillars".) It is possible (but not recommended) to rap the lower rap of Birthday Brushings with a single 60m, but you must swing 20-25 ft right and land at a multi-trunked tree.

Protection

Normal rack, small wire for the "hole". [See photo of "Neat hole..."] TriCams for P2 Variation

Photos