Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Ed Webster & Kathryn Rogers Sept 1981|
|Page Views:||332 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Nov 1, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
APPROACH: Follow directions towards Road to Lhasa, but cut across the woods to a descending ramp with fixed rope (pass the start of What's Up Yankee's "ugly" corner) and make a 4-5 ft descent down a slab, then hike up and left 20-25 ft gaining the ledge at the base of Birthday Brushings and 25-30 ft left, the start of Lucky Charms. [See Topo of base area of this part of the cliff posted to Lucky Charms]
START- On a ledge about 40 feet left of the black corner of "What's Up Yankee?", or about 50-60 feet right of, and about 30 ft higher than, the start of "Pillars of Dickulese". There’s a small maple tree about 15-20 ft up the climb. (See photo, and/or Topo, of the LEFT Side Area.)
DESCRIPTION: Very nice, varied climbing. The first 30-40 ft of this section of the cliff is much like that of the Bonsai-Sub-Slab, in that it is steep enough to not be "just friction slab". The "Direct" variation on P1 has moves similar to those of Cruise Control & Perfect Wave.
P1- START at the left end of the "Lucky Charms Ledge", by a clump of trees. In 2020 there was a 12ft maple about 15-20 ft up, and a piton sticking out about 30-35 ft up.(Photo) Climb up to the piton (Small-to-Med. cam backs up) then up to a higher horizontal crack. Per the FA, move up and right (Var#1) to the obvious left-facing flake for protection, then diagonal back left to a gear belay in an often-wet pocket 6 ft below the small pine tree. 80-90 ft The F.A. party rated this pitch 5.7R, but I would give it 5.5-5.6 PG. Don't miss the really neat wire nut placement in the "hole" above the tree. (photo)
Variation#1 "Lucky Charms Direct"- Above the piton, climb directly up the slab, past 2 bolts, maybe 5.7 / 5.7+ right of the bolts [left-hand clips], slightly harder left of the bolts. to the belay. [1 bolt, back-up with gear] Rather than belay here, you can also move up and right to the bolted belay of Birthday Brushings. A 3rd bolt and Tricams in holes provide protection. Finish on P2 of "Birthday" or rap from its P1 anchor with a 70m or double ropes.
P2 - (As per the FA) Step left from the “pocket” belay [Var#2] and climb up to the trees. This is extremely close to the "Pillars" 2nd pitch, if not the same. "Pillars" has one protection bolt on its P2.
Variation#2 "Direct continuation" - Move right from the belay 6-8ft (solution pocket on the left takes a Tri-Cam, as does another on the right a bit higher**) and then straight up (pin driven down into a poor flake about 1/2 way up) to the trees. Exit moves brushed in 2014. 120-130 ft 5.3-5.4 R/X May be wet.
Descent - Rap "Pillars" from the large pine tree with TWO 2-rope raps, or two raps with a single rope 70 Meter down "Birthday Brushings" (about 40+/- ft climber's-right of the large pine of "Pillars".) It is possible (but not recommended) to rap the lower rap of Birthday Brushings with a single 60m, but you must swing 20-25 ft right and land at a multi-trunked tree.