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Routes in Small Chinese Boulder

Chinese Arete V6 7A
Fortune Cookie V5 6C
Ruth Guns V4 6B
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 520 total, 14/month
Shared By: bheller on Oct 31, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is the west facing arete of the small Chinese Boulder. The problem is between Fortune Cookie (v5) to the left, and Ruth's Guns (v4) to the right.

Sit starting on the good undercling block with the left hand, and an incut crimp/ rail for the right hand. Do a big move with the right hand to a not-so-good crimp on the right face of the arete. Now bump the left hand up many times until it lands in the final highest good slot left of the arete. Get your feet reset under you and dyno for the lip! The hardest part is clamping down on the poor right hand crimp for so long while you re-position your left hand and feet so many times to set up for the dyno. This problem has long been considered v5, but it feels significantly harder to me than Fortune Cookie (v5) to the left, and most other problems graded v5 I can think of in the canyon...I think v6 is more realistic.


A couple of pads, fresh logo beanies, and a spotter are nice.


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