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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 170 ft
FA: Wayne Crill, Greg Miller, Aug. 2014 (top rope)
Page Views: 731 total, 19/month
Shared By: Greg Miller on Oct 28, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route has a lot of varied climbing...a tricky slab, a stiff boulder problem crux on bullet hard Eldo sandstone, and a pumpy roof traverse.

Climb right-facing flakes, stepping left when it ends for a thin slab move, follow easier moves up to the strata following this until you're beneath the beautiful, chocolate milk, boulder problem crux. Once you have fired this, you are underneath the obvious, right-leaning roof, shake out, fight the pump, and undercling/crimp your way around this all the way to the end. Follow slightly easier rock to the ridge line.

Setting up a top rope is possible with static rope. It's handy if you can drop it down low enough and put directionals in for your rope. This might be a good candidate for being bolted.

Location

Begin just right of No Visible Means of Support at an obviously right-facing flake that begins behind a boulder.

Protection

SR with extra small/medium cams.

Photos

Greg Miller  
 
I think this should be bolted, Wayne spotted the line and put a lot of work into cleaning it up. After we climbed the route on top rope, and he realized it could be led, it was to him, his last mark he'd leave in Eldo before moving away. Oct 2, 2015
Greg Miller  
 
The pieces left as directional weren't suppose to be there as fixed pieces, the day we went to lead these routes we noticed someone took down our intricate top rope anchor left up for the week. We had planned to lower off and clean the remaining directional pieces; however, we didn't want to deal with it and figured we'd clean on the follow. I think this could also make for a good mixed route (gear and bolts) as there are good natural gear placements.
I think Wayne would approve of bolting. It's a great climb on good rock and his vision for a route on an intimidating wall. Jan 20, 2015
EDJ
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
EDJ   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
This is a worthy route...a pain to rig for a TR, however. Wayne had preplaced some gear for his attempt which came in handy for directionals. I think this route is worth bolting. It would link nicely into Joe's pitch higher up. What would Wayne want? Jan 20, 2015