Type: Trad, 1600 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ogden/Donahue
Page Views: 1,198 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Oct 27, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is some of the best rock I've climbed in the canyon (having done 46 routes here)! The first 5 pitches have bullet hard, perfect pewter granite with some "no fall" R sections. Also in the first five are 2 peg R pitches that you CAN'T fall on! The first ascensionists gave this route .12-[5.9X obligitory]! but they are manageable run-outs on "good" peg, if you can believe that.

The crux is actually a short 10' section on the second to last pitch protected by 2 pins.

The only bad pitch is the last as it is just an exit pitch of easy choss and can easily be simul-ed to speed up getting to the beer.

I would recommend this route to any seasoned long route climber who knows they WILL NOT fall on .9+/.10- terrain!

Location

The route travels up the middle of the buttress. Do the same 300' scramble up to the terrace as for the older Hooker routes.

Protection

Standard rack with RPs and nuts, extra 0.5-#1s, 16 slings, and a few draws for occasional bolts.

Photos