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Routes in Aretes

Blacksmiths T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cheap Hooker T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Diagonal Will T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Ghost Dancer Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lauren's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Life Aquatic, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Odyssey, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pathfinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Porcelain Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pound Town T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Prussian Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Road Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Russian Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sistine Reality T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Suffer Pony at the Disco T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
World According to Guppy, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Submarine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 1600 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ogden/Donahue
Page Views: 720 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Oct 27, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is some of the best rock I've climbed in the canyon (having done 46 routes here)! The first 5 pitches have bullet hard, perfect pewter granite with some "no fall" R sections. Also in the first five are 2 peg R pitches that you CAN'T fall on! The first ascensionists gave this route .12-[5.9X obligitory]! but they are manageable run-outs on "good" peg, if you can believe that.

The crux is actually a short 10' section on the second to last pitch protected by 2 pins.

The only bad pitch is the last as it is just an exit pitch of easy choss and can easily be simul-ed to speed up getting to the beer.

I would recommend this route to any seasoned long route climber who knows they WILL NOT fall on .9+/.10- terrain!

Location

The route travels up the middle of the buttress. Do the same 300' scramble up to the terrace as for the older Hooker routes.

Protection

Standard rack with RPs and nuts, extra 0.5-#1s, 16 slings, and a few draws for occasional bolts.

Photos

This looks outstanding and in the fine tradition of Black Canyon ascents.
If only I were the old me instead of the old me. Dec 6, 2014
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Phil, you have such a great way with words. Great to hear from you!
Moss Dec 8, 2014
Bravo, Jared and Topher. Way to pick a line. The rock is indeed some of the best in the Black, amazing really. The crunch factor on the pegmatite seemed about average to me, though, so be prepared for a typical peg experience, and you may be pleasantly surprised. The run-outs are real but entirely sane, an excellent of example of well-considered, minimalist bolting. The climbing itself is not terribly physical, making it especially well-suited for unfit geezers still able to move competently on moderately serious Black Canyon terrain. The crux pitch looks a bit contrived from the belay and could definitely use some cleaning. It unfolds as the optimal line, however, and is nevertheless a fun, well-protected climax to a modern Black Canyon classic. We did the final pitch by headlamp and were pleasantly surprised to discover ourselves topping out right on the trail making for a user-friendly experience from bottom to top. Get on this thing. Nov 1, 2016
chris righter
  5.11+ R
chris righter  
  5.11+ R
Mega! So much fun! Nov 12, 2017
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
Yesterday, my partner had the anchor atop P2 completely blow out on him. Where it is said to belay is not a good belay! I think the flake or crack expanded, and all three cams popped. Anyways, I managed to stop some of the force of his fall by death gripping the tag line and him death gripping the lead line. He landed on the only small tiny ledge on that whole lower face 50 or so feet lower than the anchor. He's lucky to be alive. If anyone heads up there soon, please watch where you put the anchor on P2, and if you could return any of the gear we left to bail, that would be great. Thanks. Apr 23, 2018

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