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Call of the Wild

5.11a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 19 votes
FA: Dave McRae
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials > Marsupial Wall > (b) Dog Wall
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Description

Crux probably comes just getting to the second bolt climbing good rock in a small dihedral. Then continue up the face until you pull onto a ledge. Off the ledge, clip the first bolt with a long sling and start up a 10+ crack caped by a 5.11- crux on steep rock featuring jugs! Then mantle onto another ledge and continue up suspect rock on 5.9 climbing.

Location

Left most route on the wall right of the corner.

Protection

10 quickdraws plus anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Traversing onto the steep section
[Hide Photo] Traversing onto the steep section
Sarah working her way up the overhang
[Hide Photo] Sarah working her way up the overhang
Chris Hatzai starts up Call of the Wild in winter conditions
[Hide Photo] Chris Hatzai starts up Call of the Wild in winter conditions
Crack is good
[Hide Photo] Crack is good
Nick M. getting onto the ledge
[Hide Photo] Nick M. getting onto the ledge
Nick M. Starting Call of the Wild
[Hide Photo] Nick M. Starting Call of the Wild

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dave McRae
Bend, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] After pulling the bulge up high, step right and stay on the arete for best rock quality. The rock on the face to the left is still loose. If you search out the choss, you'll find it. Apr 26, 2018
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.11a PG13
[Hide Comment] This route was ok, can't recommend it for people breaking into the grade though, as a fall mantling up onto the ledge (or god forbid a broken hold in the sea of choss) past the roof crux would leave you with a 15-20 footer straight to a slabby ledge section. I didn't take the fall and certainly didn't want to. I could imagine a 5.11 climber freaking out on those moves, but with fairly good reason to do so. May 12, 2018
Dave McRae
Bend, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Nothing slabby about the fall potential on the crux of this route. It's steep and clean. Only a very inattentive belayer would let the leader fall to the ledge. Anybody who gets freaked out by loose rock should avoid this route, and this wall all together. May 17, 2018
Alan Collins
Bend, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] the fall off after the overhang is safe. Ive seen someone max out the fall with a soft catch and they didn't touch the ledge. Theres some loose rock, but the movement is great! Don't let Call of the Wild scare you too much! May 30, 2018
[Hide Comment] With respect and gratitude to the route developers these areas... I've climbed my share of rotten rock and enjoy a good choss vision quest. But this route is utterly dangerous. I can't recommend it be climbed in its current state and I'm not sure there's an amount of cleaning that would really do it justice. The jugs on top of the detached block are fully loose and the fall from there would be dramatic, to say the least.

If you really need some danger in your life, go for it.. make sure your belayer has a helmet on. Mar 25, 2019
Dave McRae
Bend, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] It's funny to see 5.13 climbers getting all panty wasted on this 5.11a.
I climbed this route in Feb 2020 with the intention of giving it a re-cleaning. Our party of four knocked down zero loose rock. Like, not a flake, crumb, or anything. When Jesse says, "The jugs on top of the detached block are fully loose". That just isn't the case. I dangled my full 180 lbs. from them, feet flapping in the breeze, Cliffhanger style. Nothing flexed, creeked, or seemed at all loose.
Above the roof, the rock to the left was intentionally left grungy to force people toward the proud line of solid rock on the arete. Where Crit's wading into a "sea of choss", he's off route.
I concluded that Call of the Wild didn't need a re-cleaning. It still has some scree on the middle ledge, and requires treading lightly in a few, non-crux sections. Sometimes, finding the solid holds is part of the route finding. Sometimes, cruxes happen above the bolt. This isn't the Dihedrals, and it's definitely not the gym, because sometimes rock climbing is supposed to feel wild! Feb 23, 2020
Aimee McRae
Bend
 
[Hide Comment] Really unique route. I thought the jugs at the top of the flake felt quite solid and I felt pretty secure on the mantle section and didn't think I would hit the slab if I fell. I'm really not a very bold leader and not afraid to back off of something I feel is dangerous and I felt quite secure on this whole route. Mar 3, 2020