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Routes in Dreamland

ADHD (Adventure Dog Hank Direct) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Adventure Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Egos S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bucket List S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Call of the Wild S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daily Grind S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doberman Pinscher S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dreamland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Endless Summer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Half Breed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hong Kong Phooey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lords of Dogtown S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Man's Best Friend S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Off the Wall S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rip City S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Side Effects S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stairway to Heaven S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Transworld S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dave McRae
Page Views: 896 total · 19/month
Shared By: Alan Collins on Oct 27, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Crux probably comes just getting to the second bolt climbing good rock in a small dihedral. Then continue up the face until you pull onto a ledge. Off the ledge, clip the first bolt with a long sling and start up a 10+ crack caped by a 5.11- crux on steep rock featuring jugs! Then mantle onto another ledge and continue up suspect rock on 5.9 climbing.

Location

Left most route on the wall right of the corner.

Protection

10 quickdraws plus anchors

Photos

Dave McRae
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Dave McRae   Bend, OR
  5.11a
Once past the opening crux, this route is steep, juggy and fun. The scary looking flakes SEEM solid. Go get it people!!! Oct 31, 2014
John Collins
Bend Or
 
John Collins   Bend Or
 
Be ready for the first half even tho the steep upper part looks like it would be the crux. This route gives you two different styles. Boulder like start and overhanging jug finish. lots of fun. Dec 2, 2014
Dave McRae
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Dave McRae   Bend, OR
  5.11a
After pulling the bulge up high, step right and stay on the arete for best rock quality. The rock on the face to the left is still loose. If you search out the choss, you'll find it. Apr 26, 2018
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.11a PG13
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.11a PG13
This route was ok, can't recommend it for people breaking into the grade though, as a fall mantling up onto the ledge (or god forbid a broken hold in the sea of choss) past the roof crux would leave you with a 15-20 footer straight to a slabby ledge section. I didn't take the fall and certainly didn't want to. I could imagine a 5.11 climber freaking out on those moves, but with fairly good reason to do so. May 12, 2018
Dave McRae
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Dave McRae   Bend, OR
  5.11a
Nothing slabby about the fall potential on the crux of this route. It's steep and clean. Only a very inattentive belayer would let the leader fall to the ledge. Anybody who gets freaked out by loose rock should avoid this route, and this wall all together. May 17, 2018
Alan Collins
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Alan Collins   Bend, OR
  5.11a
the fall off after the overhang is safe. Ive seen someone max out the fall with a soft catch and they didn't touch the ledge. Theres some loose rock, but the movement is great! Don't let Call of the Wild scare you too much! May 30, 2018

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