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Routes in Table Rock

Bad Table Manners TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Invitation to Dinner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Led on gear by Ken Nichols, 2000. Possibly climbed earlier.
Page Views: 658 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chris Gesek on Oct 26, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

Climb up the wide crack on the left and wander easily up the middle of the face with no pro until you reach the thin cracks below the rest ledge on the left. Move up, reach right and strenuously hand-traverse a few feet right, then straight up the center of the upper block.

The huge upper block seems to be held up by a smaller, unstable looking boulder. See pic.

Location

This climb is on a distinct-looking pile of huge blocks to the right of the Party Wall and left of the Orange wall.

Protection

This climb was retro-bolted (without permission) and subsequently chopped. Standard rack, large cams might help at the top. The FA party slung the unstable block as pro. There is potential for groundfall on this route. See the comments below.

Long slings needed for TR setup.

Photos

Morgan Patterson   CT  
Chris, I have amended this route to X as it appears a fall from the unprotected section could result in serious injury or death from decking. Nov 10, 2014
T Roper
Douchachusetts
  5.9 X
T Roper   Douchachusetts
  5.9 X
Chris- who leads this route as it is? and thanks for stirring the shit pot, I hope you are downwind. Nov 7, 2014
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.9 X
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.9 X
Yeah, I would call it 5.7ish but I'm constantly accused of sandbagging grades. Most people call the face 5.8. Probably height dependent. Oct 30, 2014
Chris Gesek  
 
Thanks. That should clarify it perfectly for anyone who chooses to lead it. The runnout is probably 5.7ish? Oct 30, 2014
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.9 X
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.9 X
Chris,

I was there the other day and climbed the route again to make sure I know what I'm talking about. If you fall anywhere from a body length above the first piece to the second piece 30 feet above you are going to hit the ground which is covered in rocks. If you survived, you would probably be spending the rest of your life in a wheelchair sucking your dinner through a straw. That is the definition of an X rated climb. Here is a photo of the climb. It is not too clear but you can see the gear I placed where I have arrows. If you fall anywhere between those red lines you are going to hit the ground. While the face is not the crux it is not significantly easier either. There is no gear opportunities at all between those red lines.

Oct 30, 2014
Chris Gesek  
 
There are plenty of routes with runnouts on easy sections that are considered PG/PG13. That being said, I'm not terribly upset that someone changed my rating to R. I certainly wouldn't call it X or a free solo on gear. My biggest concern was that block falling on me and my belayer. Oct 29, 2014
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.9 X
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.9 X
This is not on the Party Wall. This is the Party Wall: mountainproject.com/v/party…

This is not PG-13. You have the potential for a long (30 foot?) fall between the first and second piece of gear and will deck. It is a free solo on gear and at least an "R" and probably an "X" should you fall before getting to where you can place the second piece of pro.

I saw Nichols lead this many many years ago (around 2000) when we were teaching an AMC class at the cliff. He skirted left to the arete to get gear in and finished up the left face. So he did not (at least that time) do the same route that was bolted. And if Ken is claiming a first ascent in 2000 then I'm sure it was climbed before that. Oct 27, 2014