Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft|
|FA:||Paul Ross, Hugo Tosco, Isabella Tosca Sept 1980|
|Page Views:||149 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Oct 26, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
START - about 10 ft left of the end of the tree ledge, where a small oak tree grows about 1.5 - 2 ft out from the slab. On the slab a 6-8" streak of golden rock descends between much darker rock, and there are a few partially-formed solution pockets.
P1 - There is no protection until well up the slab. Making long reaches (height-dependent grade?) climb up the solution pockets, finally establishing a foothold in the largest. (5.7+ / 5.8) Then make a thin move (5.8? R/X?) up to a nice 2-3" ledge.
Continue (easier) up the golden slab (really nice climbing!) passing to the left of a large dark flake (somewhat hollow, although a med. solution pocket to its left might take a TriCam or larger Alien). Continue up, passing one good bolt (3/8"SS replaced old 1/4 stud) at about 90-100 ft up. About 60-70 ft further, at the horizontal cracks (good gear) either go up and left to trees below the final overlap, or move up and right and finish over the overlap as per "Pillars". 180- 200 ft 5.8 R/X? (with 5.4 +/- R)
Descent(s)- An ancient rap sling was found on the tree below the overlap on the left, probably either from the FA of "Wit's" or "Watermelon." Re-establish this and rap once with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, or finish to the trees and Rap from the big pine with 2 ropes to the "Pillars" top rap station, then a 2-rope rap the ground. Finally, if you only have a single 70M walk climber's right (approx 50 beyond the "Pillars" top rap station) to the top belay/station of B-Day Brushings and rap twice.
Otherwise, no pro for the crux. Small-to-medium cams or nuts above the crux. A med.-sized TriCam, or a red-or-orange Alien may be just-the-thing for the pocket left of the large hollow flake. A med.-large (#0.75 / 1.0) Camalot if you're going over the overlap at the top, per "Pillars".