Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m)
FA: Kurt Winkler & Lee Gerstein Oct 15, 1991
Page Views: 283 total · 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 26, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: May 2020 Painted Walls are closed for Peregren Falcon nesting (until about late July-Aug) , but Rainbow is open. You may see the Painted Walls closure signs on the approach path to Rainbow. Details

Description

Like it's neighbor "Wit's End", I'd "up" the star rating if you are solid at 5.9-5.10 and are good at mantel moves. The horizontal ledge was brushed in 2014. Maybe Kurt will allow a retro-bolt to be placed, mmm?

START About 25 ft left of the end of the tree ledge (i.e. about 50 ft right of the start of the ledge) where a watermelon-sized and shaped formation [see photo] is located about 5-6ft off the ground.

P1 - Curently, there's no gear for any of the hard moves. Step onto the obvious first foothold to the right of the Watermelon, then make a delicate move left (5.8+? / 5.9-?) and another move up onto/into the watermelon. Then mantel onto the horizontal ledge (5.8? / 5.8+? R/X).

Now, I'd say Kurt probably climbed straight up the slab above the horizontal (5.7+R/X / 5.8R/X) but an alternative is to move 5-6 ft right (5.4 +/-) to a 2nd 2"-3" ledge and THEN climb up (5.5 +/-) the beautiful golden rock. [I would think the two "variations" join about 15-20 ft up.] The 'natural line' seems to "flow" to the right of a streak of lichen. At about 50-60 ft up good gear can be had at a small flake on the right, then cross left over the lichen streak to climb more beautiful rock to horizontals and a gear belay (small-med. cams). 160-170 ft 5.8+ R (5.7+/5.8 R/X or 5.5 +/- R)

P2 - (Can be combined with P1 with a 60M rope.) Continue up right [Var] to the ledge with one 6"-diameter live tree (ancient rap sling here) or, 6ft above the tree climb a short, "manky" corner with a tiny white birch above to the very top.

Var: ALTERNATELY, move up and left to the top. 20-30 ft 5.3

Descent- 1) Re-establish the rap anchor on the tree and rap the route with 2 ropes, or..

2) finish up to the top and walk 20-30 ft climber's right to the big pine and make 2 raps with 2 ropes on "Pillars",... or ....
3) continue another 35-40 ft beyond the big pine to the anchor on top of "B-Day Brushings" and make 2 raps with a single FULL LENGTH 70 meter rope.

Protection

Nothing for the low crux moves, then a TCU placement on the right about 60 +/- ft up, and more gear passing a right-facing flake about 90-100 ft up. Small-to-Med. cams for the gear belay if you don't combine P1 and P2.

Photos

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