Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m)|
|FA:||Kurt Winkler & Lee Gerstein Oct 15, 1991|
|Page Views:||445 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Oct 26, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall|
Like it's neighbor "Wit's End", I'd "up" the star rating if you are solid at 5.9-5.10 and are good at mantel moves. The horizontal ledge was brushed in 2014. Maybe Kurt will allow a retro-bolt to be placed, mmm?
START About 25 ft left of the end of the tree ledge (i.e. about 50 ft right of the start of the ledge) where a watermelon-sized and shaped formation [see photo] is located about 5-6ft off the ground.
P1 - Curently, there's no gear for any of the hard moves. Step onto the obvious first foothold to the right of the Watermelon, then make a delicate move left (5.8+? / 5.9-?) and another move up onto/into the watermelon. Then mantel onto the horizontal ledge (5.8? / 5.8+? R/X).
Now, I'd say Kurt probably climbed straight up the slab above the horizontal (5.7+R/X / 5.8R/X, which is his recollection) but an alternative is to move 5-6 ft right (5.4 +/-) to a 2nd 2"-3" ledge and THEN climb up (5.5 +/-) the beautiful golden rock. [I would think the two "variations" join about 15-20 ft up.] The 'natural line' seems to "flow" to the right of a streak of lichen. At about 50-60 ft up good gear can be had at a small flake on the right, then cross left over the lichen streak to climb more beautiful rock to horizontals and a gear belay (small-med. cams). 160-170 ft 5.8+ R (5.7+/5.8 R/X )
P2 - (Can be combined with P1 with a 60M rope.) Continue up right [Var] to the ledge with one 6"-diameter live tree (ancient rap sling here) or, 6ft above the tree climb a short, "manky" corner with a tiny white birch above to the very top.
Var: ALTERNATELY, move up and left to the top. 20-30 ft 5.3
Descent- 1) Re-establish the rap anchor on the tree and rap the route with 2 ropes, or..
2) finish up to the top and walk 20-30 ft climber's right to the big pine and make 2 raps with 2 ropes on "Pillars",... or ....
3) continue another 35-40 ft beyond the big pine to the anchor on top of "B-Day Brushings" and make 2 raps with a single FULL LENGTH 70 meter rope.