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Routes in 1. Left Side

Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inspectrum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pillars of Dickulese T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Watermelon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
What's Up Yankee? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Wit's End "Without" (the branch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Kurt Winkler & Lee Gerstein Oct 15, 1991
Page Views: 45 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 26, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

Like it's neighbor "Wit's End", I'd "up" the star rating if you are solid at 5.9-5.10 and are good at mantel moves. The horizontal ledge was brushed in 2014. Maybe Kurt will allow a retro-bolt to be placed, mmm?

START About 25 ft left of the end of the tree ledge (i.e. about 50 ft right of the start of the ledge) where a watermelon-sized and shaped formation [see photo] is located about 5-6ft off the ground.

P1 - Curently, there's no gear for any of the hard moves. Step onto the obvious first foothold to the right of the Watermelon, then make a delicate move left (5.8+? / 5.9-?) and another move up onto/into the watermelon. Then mantel onto the horizontal ledge (5.8? / 5.8+? R/X).

Now, I'd say Kurt probably climbed straight up the slab above the horizontal (5.7+R/X / 5.8R/X) but an alternative is to move 5-6 ft right (5.4 +/-) to a 2nd 2"-3" ledge and THEN climb up (5.5 +/-) the beautiful golden rock. [I would think the two "variations" join about 15-20 ft up.] The 'natural line' seems to "flow" to the right of a streak of lichen. At about 50-60 ft up good gear can be had at a small flake on the right, then cross left over the lichen streak to climb more beautiful rock to horizontals and a gear belay (small-med. cams). 160-170 ft 5.8+ R (5.7+/5.8 R/X or 5.5 +/- R)

P2 - (Can be combined with P1 with a 60M rope.) Continue up right [Var] to the ledge with one 6"-diameter live tree (ancient rap sling here) or, 6ft above the tree climb a short, "manky" corner with a tiny white birch above to the very top.

Var: ALTERNATELY, move up and left to the top. 20-30 ft 5.3

Descent- 1) Re-establish the rap anchor on the tree and rap the route with 2 ropes, or..

2) finish up to the top and walk 20-30 ft climber's right to the big pine and make 2 raps with 2 ropes on "Pillars",... or ....
3) continue another 35-40 ft beyond the big pine to the anchor on top of "B-Day Brushings" and make 2 raps with a single FULL LENGTH 70 meter rope.

Protection

Nothing for the low crux moves, then a TCU placement on the right about 60 +/- ft up, and more gear passing a right-facing flake about 90-100 ft up. Small-to-Med. cams for the gear belay if you don't combine P1 and P2.

Photos

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