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Swimmin' in Ignorance

5.10a, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 10 votes
FA: Fransen, Cahill 1996
Idaho > W Idaho > Black Cliffs > Short Cliffs
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal raptor closures: Scary Canyon, Face Canyon, Highway Face, Steep Wall, Far Side, and Nixon Head (updated 3/15/24) DetailsDrop down

Description

Start by face climbing up towards a high first bolt. Place a few pieces of gear in a small crack before you reach the bolt. Clip two bolts, then pull onto a ledge under the roof. Lean back and clip your last bolt at the edge of the roof. Pull the roof on huge jugs but marginal feet to another ledge with the chains.

Location

Right side of the short cliffs. Just right of Minuteman. A small crack leads up towards a roof. You can see the obvious bolts with the last one at the edge of the roof. See pic.

Protection

3 bolts and small gear to chains. I used 0.1-0.4 C4s. Could also use nuts or other small cams.

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Swimmin in ignorance
[Hide Photo] Swimmin in ignorance
The route.  Climb the easy, thin crack to three bolts.
[Hide Photo] The route. Climb the easy, thin crack to three bolts.