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Three Dragons

M7, Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 350 ft, 5 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
FA: Phil Wortmann, Jack Rodat, Noah McKelvin (with an appearance of Erik Wellborn)
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Colorado Spring… > Pike's Peak > N Face of Pike's Peak

Description

Two years ago, Erik Wellborn, Phil Wortmann, and I jumped on it. We only made it 30 feet up and bailed due to the moss and intimidating nature of the first couple pitches.

This has got to be one of the best alpine "mixed" routes I've done, and that's not because I'm partial. It really is classic, as good, if not more so, than the The Ole 6 to the right.

Three Dragons takes the steepest line (so far) straight up the middle of the Corinthian Column. The route has it all, from roofs, to technical pulls, to moss, to fantastic hooks. At many times, the route seems too thin to go, but it's all there. The climbing stays sustained from a foot off the ground to P4.

P1. (M6/7) Start off the ground on funky terrain to the first roof. Pull around it, and milk a rest. Place good gear, and then gun it through vertical terrain with hard to get feet and technical hooks. Pull through an odd bulge with a good pin, and set up a belay in an alcove below the second intimidating roof.

P2. (M6/7) Commit to the overhang with good gear but pretty bad feet. Once you turn the roof, climb insecure exciting M5+ to a nice ledge, thankfully. The gear is there. Work for it.

These two pitches could be combined, but we found with the sustained nature that we didn't have enough gear to link, but the hardmen will probably think differently.

P3. (M5+) Start up left in a corner. Five feet to the right is a thin crack. Place a good piece, and climb a little bit higher. Make an exciting move, and commit to the crack. Move up the M5+ crack. The gear gets better the higher you get. Choose your own terrain above with a fun mantel to a big ledge on the leftmost side below a wide crack in a dihedral.

P4. (M6/7) Climb up the dihedral for 10 feet, and then start the journey by traversing right. Up and right you should see what looks like a vertical blank face. You traverse a small let until at the base. Don't go up the dihedral all the way. It leads to a slab. Once at the base of the seam, commit. All I gotta say is it's beyond classic. It ends with a great M5+ dihedral to a great ledge.

P5. (M easy) Climb the broken terrain to the top.

Now listen to the "rangers" yell at you to get down. :)

Location

Halfway between Blind Assumption and Total Abandon is the roof system. It is hard to miss.

Protection

Typical mixed rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First two pitches.
[Hide Photo] First two pitches.
3D as a summer rock route. I lowered the rating after repeating the line in much drier conditions than our first time. I'm glad to see that it's cleaned up so well.
[Hide Photo] 3D as a summer rock route. I lowered the rating after repeating the line in much drier conditions than our first time. I'm glad to see that it's cleaned up so well.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
  M8
[Hide Comment] Super fun line, some of the funnest pitches I've done on Pike's. Once this cleans up a little, it will make a great summer rock line as well. The Park has Two Dragons... well on Pike's we have Three Dragons! Oct 24, 2014
Jikimika Dinglehoffer
Lander, Wy
 
[Hide Comment] Well done, would like to check it out. FYI, Jack's last name is Rodat. Nov 24, 2014
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  M7
[Hide Comment] Hey JD! Thanks for the edit error. Hope you're doing well! Nov 27, 2014
Chris Dickson
Telluride, CO
[Hide Comment] Been eyeing this as a rock route every time I walk by the Column. It's going down this summer! Apr 9, 2015
phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
  M8
[Hide Comment] A friend showed me an old hand-drawn topo by Harvey Miller that possibly showed this line as "Numero Uno," 5.11. Hard to tell if they shared the same last pitch but definitely the first half at least. May 11, 2018