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The Party is Over Arete
V6,
Boulder, 14 ft (4 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 11
votes
FA: Jay Keener
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Boulders - Litt…
> White Pine Boul…
> White Pine South
> Party Pit Area
> Mom boulder
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Another very good problem in the Party Pit in the V6/7 range. A bit sharp.
Start on the arete with a low right hand crimp, and a side pull left of the arete. Climb the arete using side pulls and a blocky pinch. Grab a good edge over the lip, match, and push out a kinda hard mantel
Location
This is actually on the boulder that leans against the west face of the Mom Boulder, at Karnkruncher. It goes up the arete that faces north (towards the road).
Protection
4 four pads are ideal. A number of boulders in the landing zone. A spotter for the topout.
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