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Routes in The 5.10 Wall

Dirty Handshake, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gap Abides, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hooters Arete S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mr. Owl S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wize Owl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Woodland Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Will Carey
Page Views: 412 total, 11/month
Shared By: And Partner on Oct 22, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This route climbs directly up the line of bolts that you rap over if you approach this cliff from the top. Bolted by Ward Smith, it was called Project Owl in Jerry Handren's guide. We decided to do it without the roof crack at the top. There is a bivy sized ledge at the top of the face climbing so this seemed like the logical place to end it. Sustained small crimps and balancey moves up a near 90 degree face to a large ledge.
Note: There is currently no anchor on the ledge besides a single bolt to lower off. The next time I go out I'll put in something more permanent. The roof crack is still there for the taking if anyone wants. It should be done as a separate pitch. With rope stretch you would most definitely hit the ledge falling off this from anywhere if you lead it from the ground.

Location

The Gap Abides starts just left of The Dirty Handshake

Protection

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And Partner  
 
Not a sandbag. Oct 24, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Lots of ways people can have fun on it. Me, I think I would try it on TR and see if I can even free all the moves, lol. Hopefully this worthy line (either way) will get some more ascents and we will get a consensus. I remember thinking it was quite a bit harder, but I think I was only on it once or twice. You know how it is, sometimes when working a route one can get tunnel vision and miss something that makes all the difference, especially on such a technical route. Maybe you were pretty fat and out of shape around that time, Ward ;)) Oct 23, 2014
No problem with an anchor on the ledge, it probably does make sense,

You really should do the top however, even as a second pitch. Kind of hard to call a route finished when you don't go to the top of a 100 foot cliff with a line of bolts and an anchor above you. Your call if you want to do the first pitch carrying cams....I'm guessing nobody will ever do it if the bolts are removed but, again, your call.

Even though I am mostly a sport climber now I guess I still have that trad mentality, ha ha. That is why I never did crack of the future at left owls; I couldn't figure out how to get to the top. Brady figured it out: put two bolts in and call it good!

And you are sandbagging people if you call that 12d..... Oct 23, 2014
And Partner  
 
Hey Ward
Great line by the way. I didn't do the roof because it (and no offense intended) seemed a little forced. We brought the cams to do it without the bolts but once we got to the ledge it seemed obvious that it was over (not to say the crack doesn't add difficulty). The ledge is ten to fifteen feet wide and then then there is ten or so feet of roof crack above. It would definitely be a good second pitch but even if you clipped the bolts through the roof crack, with stretch you would deck on the ledge if lead from the bottom. If you don't want an anchor placed there I understand. It's your route and I would certainly ask your opinion before pulling any of the bolts. Still, doing it to the ledge on its own seems more in tune with the rest of the routes at the cliff.

Mark, I hiked in there twice with Michael Larson. Both times we got sort of hopelessly lost but managed to find our way. I don't know that my description would be helpful. We just followed Handren';s book and managed to make it there. Oct 22, 2014
Trying to figure why you didn't do the roof. It is a killer crack out a roof with wild exposure. Only 100 feet to the anchor, and no you won't hit the ledge if you fall (I know).

I set it up that way because it is really cool. You can do what you want, but the roof at the end makes the route. If you don't like the bolts then use gear and pull them.


Ward Oct 22, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Will, if you or Ray ever feel up to describing the way you hike in to rap in from the top, I can put it in the The Right Cliff directions. I have never gone in that way. The way we would come up from the Oracle boulders, since we camped near there, has probably gotten overgrown from lack of use. (last I checked, the way over to the left cliff was easy to follow) Oct 22, 2014