PRINT: Rock Climb Kid Galahad and the Sunshine Boys, Seneca Rocks

Kid Galahad and the Sunshine Boys

5.9, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Chris Rice, Josh Rice
W Virginia > Seneca Rocks > S Peak - E Face > Upper Broadway

Description

From the bolts atop Frosted Flake, head directly up to the bolt on the face above. Step right from the bolt and move up to bulging rock and good gear. Traverse left into the overhang and more good gear. Pull the overhang and continue straight up. Moving directly up from the bolt into the overhang would probably make this PG/PG13.

Thanks Seth and Justin for replacing the old Leeper. Quality 5.9 route.

Location

Start from the bolts atop Frosted Flake or after P1 of Dirty Old Man. Ends on the Summit Ledge. Rap off.

Protection

One bolt. Two-bolt anchor at the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Rice

When we did the original route we took it right straight up the middle - there was an RP placement just under the overlap that is now gone and there is good gear after you pull the overlap or very small roof. It was spicy then and much more so now done as we put it up. Thanks to the guides who replaced the old Leeper bolt and hanger we used back then (they did so at my request). Angling either left or right towards the corners is Not the original route. Another bolt just before the overlap would make this a popular route I believe.

Chris Rice - first ascent party. Jun 19, 2017

Eunny Jang
Washington D.C.

A heads up for the short/reach challenged - for me at 5’2”/-2”, the bolt was juuuuust out reach from the obvious stance. I’m sure most can just clip it, but if you can’t it’s quite serious getting to it with a floppy draw - choosing between a dynamic huck to an unknown hold or a waist-level crimp on smears with gear below your feet and a leg-breaking ledge not much further below. Bring a stiff sport draw if you like your leads to be more exciting than actually dangerous. Oct 7, 2023