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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Rice, Josh Rice
Page Views: 265 total, 7/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 21, 2014
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

From the bolts atop Frosted Flake, head directly up to the bolt on the face above. Step right from the bolt and move up to bulging rock and good gear. Traverse left into the overhang and more good gear. Pull the overhang and continue straight up. Moving directly up from the bolt into the overhang would probably make this PG/PG13.

Thanks Seth and Justin for replacing the old Leeper. Quality 5.9 route.

Location

Start from the bolts atop Frosted Flake or after P1 of Dirty Old Man. Ends on the Summit Ledge. Rap off.

Protection

One bolt. Two-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

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When we did the original route we took it right straight up the middle - there was an RP placement just under the overlap that is now gone and there is good gear after you pull the overlap or very small roof. It was spicy then and much more so now done as we put it up. Thanks to the guides who replaced the old Leeper bolt and hanger we used back then (they did so at my request). Angling either left or right towards the corners is Not the original route. Another bolt just before the overlap would make this a popular route I believe.

Chris Rice - first ascent party. Jun 19, 2017