Type: Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Taino 7/31/85
Page Views: 920 total · 18/month
Shared By: Dakota from North Dakota on Oct 21, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This could be at least a 3 star route if someone gave it a little more love. Most of the bolts were of the star drive quality and most of the anchor webbing looked pretty bad. I replaced the P5 belay webbing on 19/10/14. Thank you thank you to whoever took the time into putting some modern bolts at the belays!

P1: 5.10+ pg
Great but difficult to protect hands to fingers up a thin flake system. Continue up the crack system to a few airy and fun thin fingers moves over a short roof. Climb past the star drive and belay at a small ledge with one modern bolt.

P2: 5.10
The crack widens and the gear becomes more confidence inspiring. Belay at a big ledge with two star drives. Back them up with #2 Camalot. Or was it #1?

Walk across the big ledge around the boulder for 20ft. A three bolt belay is around the corner. At least one of them is a modern bolt

P4: 5.9
Cruise straight up to another two bolt anchor on a big ledge. Watch out for the damn cactus up there.

P5: 5.7
Short set of moves past pins gains the pine tree belay. Watch rope drag.

P6: A0+
Bolt ladder to the summit. First bolt is missing a hanger. Do a few free moves to get past the gap in bolts higher up. The book says that it has yet to be freed. Tried a few of the moves on my roped solo ascent, probably only goes at 5.12- or easier.

From the summit 3 single rope raps gain the p3 ledge. From there a double rope rap will get you to the dirt


Obvious flake system left of the alcove. Base of the route faces Ataxia


lots of star drives

Doubles .2-4" less will work, PG either way
2 60m ropes
Knife and webbing/cord to replace rap anchors


Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
Very nice route. I'd call the first pitch 5.11 for that thin move over the roof, good gear though. Freeing the bolt ladder on the last pitch felt like it was about 5.11/+. Aug 19, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11a A0+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11a A0+
for me pitch one could be 11a, but maybe it is height dependent, I was able to squirm up to the roof past a tiny cam and then do some wide stemming at the roof to gain good finger crack above. The lower portion is sustained 5.10 on some hard to place gear. 2nd pitch has some sandy scary rock, but it improves mid way and is great up higher- 10a. pitch 4 was more like 5.8 not 5.9. Oct 29, 2016
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
Climbed this route with a friend. Very worthwhile route. The description already given is accurate. Had a difficult time pulling our ropes from the last rap station. You may want to walk the knot over the edge before rappelling down to help with the pull. Oct 10, 2017
Michael Dom  
Bring an extra .4 and .5 for the first pitch. You don’t need a #4. Nov 24, 2018