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The Sphinx

5.10c, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 72 votes
FA: Elmo Mecsko - 6/2011
Oregon > Mt Hood Nationa… > Klinger Spring > (7) Gods & Monsters Wall

Description

Long & steep route that climbs the featured face/arete with a bouldery
crux right off the ground. Sustained 5.10 climbing through-out with a
juggy overhanging section way up high.
70 Meter rope needed for this climb.

Protection

17 bolts and 70m rope.

Location

2nd to last bolted climb at Klinger Springs

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Reed Fee
White Salmon WA
[Hide Comment] Primal institution is now the last bolted climb
I like the sphinx a lot. Oct 25, 2014
[Hide Comment] This can be done with a 60m if you are careful. The ends of the rope don't exactly touch the ground, but your feet do before you slide off the end. Just make sure you put stopper knots in the end as a precaution. Jul 21, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10
[Hide Comment] The start on this is dangerous and awful. Your belayer is standing on an eroding hillside, sharp flakes are immediately below you, and the hands and feet are crap. And then there are no holds between the 1st and 2nd bolt. Why create the risk of a ground fall here when it's a 120' route? I highly recommend placing a piece or two on Nosferatu or Red Headed Yeti and traversing into the route.

After that it's a gem. May 5, 2018
Ryan O
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] At the anchors, the nut on the bolt that is the right side of the two bolt anchor is hand tight. We tried to tighten it with a nut tool that has bolt pattern cut-outs but could not tighten it. 5/4/18 May 6, 2018
[Hide Comment] Best 5.10 at Klinger! Stellar climbing, wonderful location, awesome movement, double crux, well bolted. A close belay at the start will keep you from decking if you can't find the hidden side pull, I recommend locating it before you start as you are on delicate feet. Nov 8, 2020
[Hide Comment] great climb, the start is not that bad but use a stick clip if you don't feel confident. lots of options throughout and solid rest between cruxes. difficult to see the anchors until you're at the last bolt, but they're right there and it's a juggy finish. super fun! Jul 16, 2021
Brendan Scanlan
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] A microwave oven sized block came off the right side of the roof at the start. Oct 4, 2021