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Routes in Rainbow Rock

Rainbow Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chip Salaun and Doug Allcock, 1980
Page Views: 99 total, 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a quick route for end-of-the-roader types. It probably gets very little traffic and starts in the shade. The description from guidebooks may be a bit hard to follow, but the route essentially travels the right side of this modest crag in 2-3 pitches. The description here may be a variation of the actual line, but it works.

P1. Ascend a slab with light protection opportunities. Perhaps 50-60 feet up, you have to choose to go up lichened slab or traverse right to the edge of the crag. We went right. One could stop here ~110' up or continue leftward gaining a nicely featured face with knobs somewhat reminiscent of the golden knob pitch on the Grand Teton's Upper Exum Ridge. ~230' up is a good flake below a stump.

P2. Angle right to the edge and into the sun. Continue up the edge on slightly gritty rock to a ledge ~220' up.

P3. Continue up the edge, pass an ET-reminiscent horn. The terrain soon flattens out passing a couple 4th class descent options. However, you may continue upward to tag the top of the crag ~260' up. If you go this way, the descent is a walkoff.

Location

This starts on the right side of the crag just right of a pine needle filled groove on a slab.

Protection

A light rack to a #3.5 Camalot, wires, and a few hexes work. We used a 70m rope, but that is not essential.

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