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Routes in Peg Leg Wall

Best For Your Stick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chili Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clutching At Straws S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dough Daddy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamed, The Pumped, The French, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Miss Money Penny S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Promised Land S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Wax S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Take It To The Bank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown Short Warmup S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
catch the wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
close to the bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
men of iron T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
surf's up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, 1987
Page Views: 102 total, 3/month
Shared By: slim on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a superb climb on fantastic rock. With modern protection, it would be 4 stars for sure.

Begin up a beautiful, silver/white face behind the small tree, making long reaches between excellent pockets. A long clip to a high 2nd bolt relieves the nerves a bit. A big reach over the roof begins what feels like a never ending journey to figure out the best holds and sequences on brilliant black rock, sometimes well above bolts, on this bafflingly pumpy slab.

Rejoice when you clip the chains on this completely forgotten classic. This is a great route!

Location

This route is on the right most panel at Peg Leg Wall, about 25 feet left of where the trail meets the wall. It starts behind a small tree on silver/white rock.

Protection

4 well-spaced, old (but thick) bolts with spooky, thin, black hangers. The 2nd bolt is pretty high.

Photos

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slim

 
slim    
 
Shoot! Sorry about that, Darryl. Oct 28, 2014
Note: the route name is Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work, not Mr. Peg Leg Speed Workout. Oct 24, 2014