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Dough Daddy

5.11b, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 0 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Peg Leg Wall

Description

Begin up the left face of the dihedral and out to the arete past a low first bolt. The last moves getting to the high second bolt aren't hard, but the rock isn't great and you don't want to fall here. I had a foothold break up here, and there was some swearing....

Get past the 2nd bolt and up to a committing clip off a spooky, albeit apparently solid block, beneath the roof. Fire over the roof (trying not to break holds...) and up easier ground to an awkward clip at the anchors.

Overall, the climbing on this is ok (probably 1 star or so), but after breaking a bunch of stuff on this thing over the course of several ascents, I had to agree with my wife that it is kind of a pile. I think she put it best - "I don't want to climb this thing again, and I don't really want to belay you on it again either." I cleaned a bunch of stuff off of it, but be prepared for more loose rock.

Location

This is on the rightmost of the 3 main panels, where the trail comes up to the wall. This is the route that climbs the arete beneath the left side of the monster roof.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts and anchors. the 2nd bolt is pretty high, and the rock isn't 100% solid getting to it.