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Routes in Peg Leg Wall

Best For Your Stick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chili Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clutching At Straws S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dough Daddy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamed, The Pumped, The French, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Miss Money Penny S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Promised Land S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Wax S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Take It To The Bank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown Short Warmup S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
catch the wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
close to the bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
men of iron T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
surf's up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 54 total, 1/month
Shared By: slim on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Begin up the left face of the dihedral and out to the arete past a low first bolt. The last moves getting to the high second bolt aren't hard, but the rock isn't great and you don't want to fall here. I had a foothold break up here, and there was some swearing....

Get past the 2nd bolt and up to a committing clip off a spooky, albeit apparently solid block, beneath the roof. Fire over the roof (trying not to break holds...) and up easier ground to an awkward clip at the anchors.

Overall, the climbing on this is ok (probably 1 star or so), but after breaking a bunch of stuff on this thing over the course of several ascents, I had to agree with my wife that it is kind of a pile. I think she put it best - "I don't want to climb this thing again, and I don't really want to belay you on it again either." I cleaned a bunch of stuff off of it, but be prepared for more loose rock.

Location

This is on the rightmost of the 3 main panels, where the trail comes up to the wall. This is the route that climbs the arete beneath the left side of the monster roof.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts and anchors. the 2nd bolt is pretty high, and the rock isn't 100% solid getting to it.

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