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Routes in Peg Leg Wall

Best For Your Stick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chili Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clutching At Straws S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dough Daddy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamed, The Pumped, The French, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Miss Money Penny S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Promised Land S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Wax S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Take It To The Bank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown Short Warmup S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
catch the wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
close to the bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
men of iron T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
surf's up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: bob d'antonio and jim waugh, 1987
Page Views: 52 total, 1/month
Shared By: slim on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

this is a really good route, with tricky technical pocket pulling and feature fondling. if the protection was modernized it would be a 3 star route.

this is the right most of the 3 routes on the central panel. start up salmon colored flakes, past a low bolt. carefully make your way upward on holds that are not 100% solid to a really high second clip. you do not want to come off here - it would be pretty bad. after clipping the 2nd bolt and getting your ducks back in a row, launch upwards through sustained, tricky sequences through 2 more bolts to the anchor. superb climbing through here.

Location

rightmost of the 3 routes on the salmon colored central panel at peg leg wall.

Protection

4 bolts and anchors. second bolt is in definite crater potential territory and you have to climb on some not-perfectly-solid rock to clip it.

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