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Routes in V-Mountain aka V Rock

Consolation Prize T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Definitely Certain (DC) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Piece Of Cake (submitted as Almost Certain (AC)) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rotten Crotch T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Uncertainty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Joel Schiavone, 1991
Page Views: 526 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Oct 19, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a super finger crack with some of everything on it. It shares anchors with the bolted route, Definitely Certain, on the uphill side of the AC/DC Arete.

Lieback to straight in to a cool scoop and roof. There are a few rests.

Get great locks over the roof, to insecure fingers then straight in again and finally some more featured climbing to chains.

Throughout the route you are mainly jamming the crack with fingers and intermittently using the crack for feet. Some great foot features make this less sustained than a crack of similar size might be at the Creek.

Location

This is on the uphill side of the obvious arete you encounter as you first start climbing the talus on the left side of the V. You need to scramble up one of the unappealing little starts to get to the crack proper which is the thin, clean one that starts with a lieback. This is the leftmost crack closest to the arete. I would recommend the middle of the 3 approach cracks.

Protection

Lots of finger-sized cams, heavy on 0.4-0.5 camalots. 1-2 each, 0.75 to 1, and maybe a #2. Bring one 3.5 or so with a long sling for the start if you choose the middle of the 3 possible starts - it is really the best option.

Nuts may be helpful exiting the alcove.

You need a 70m rope for this climb. The anchors are chains with biners and are shared with DC, the bolted arete.

Photos

AndyMac
Center, CO
  5.11
AndyMac   Center, CO
  5.11
So, about this being "almost certain", I just had a conversation with the real first ascensionist.
Piece Of Cake, 12a, onsight FA by Joel Schiavone in ~1991. May 6, 2016
AndyMac
Center, CO
  5.11
AndyMac   Center, CO
  5.11
The big/middle crack at the very bottom needs a #5 or larger to protect. We built an anchor just right of the climb, sorta above that crack, for the money pitch that is AC.

Gear: singles 00 BD-#2 with doubles or triples of #0.3-#0.5 and stoppers. Don't protect the "A" at about 1/3 height (~3' section), it has a clear fracture at the bottom and perfect gear just below that. Take the grade as a guess as I'm far from a crack climber, it's definitely 5.11, could be a little harder.

Considering the evidence on many less desirable cracks on the south side of the V, it would be hard to think this crack was passed up. However, there were no signs of any cleaning, and the gardening and trundling we did strongly suggest no climbers have seriously considered this objective before. Let me know if you know different.

As of 7/15, there has been a major rockfall event (the block between the yellow anchor and the green "U" on the topo image is now flat in the boulders). The top of the pillar that the anchor is on is now broken. We TR'ed and lowered multiple times from that anchor since, but be aware. We'll figure out if the anchor needs to be moved ASAP or if the new fracture hasn't compromised the integrity of the anchor. Jul 6, 2015
Jesse Morehouse   CO
 
This is a super fun finger crack. Truth in advertising here- I've only TR'ed it, so I'm not sure how accurate the grade is, and I'm not certain I'd ever be able to lead it to know for sure. Take the rating as a "suggestion"! Regardless, have fun on it!

You can access the top anchor to hang a TR on this route and the arete by climbing the Unknown Acute Dihedral and exiting right around the arete as described on that climb. Oct 19, 2014