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Routes in Palmer Gulch

Keelhaul T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mr. November Too T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. October Also T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spicy Thai Tuna T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Yak Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mike McNeil and John Hinrichs
Page Views: 172 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mike McNeil on Oct 19, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Climb into gully at the start of Mr. October Two and go right at the spectacular handcrack that slants to the right and set up belay under the roof 5.8 170ft. Traverse left ten feet to a sweet hand and finger crack and pull roof to the left. Go up huge chimney finding nice small gear in the face until you can place a 5 camalot in the large crack . Continue up the crack to set up a belay on a nice ledge 5.8 140ft. On pitch three traverse right place gear and then down climb10 feet and traverse around the corner past two vertical cracks that provide good hand jams to access the large chimney section to the right. climb up walking your gear for 20ft to protect the second on the traverse. Continue up the chimney placing small gear in the back of the chimney until you get to a tight squeeze. At this pint place a 3/4 inch piece down climb five fee and traverse out to the edge and climb the arĂȘte till past the squeeze. Continue up the chimney on easier climbing to the top 5.9 190ft.

Location

Climb to the top of Harney Peak and then traverse down 700ft of vertical down the south facing wall to the biggest buttress on Harney Peak.

Protection

Double rack to a five and a six. Could probably get by without the 6.

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